How to promote a collagen boom in mature skin – 10/11/2023 – Balance

Increased sagging, dryness and the appearance of fine lines are the main changes that occur in a woman’s skin when she enters the climacteric, a period that encompasses the entire transition phase from the reproductive to the non-reproductive period.

This stage of life, which begins around age 40 and lasts until age 65, is characterized by the progressive decrease in the production of sexual hormones, especially estrogen. This is when doctors consider that the woman has mature skin.

Dermatologist Maria Paula Del Nero, member of the SBCD (Brazilian Society of Dermatological Surgery), explains that fibroblasts, cells responsible for collagen synthesis, have receptors for estrogen.

“This hormone acts as if it were food for these cells. As the amount of estrogen drops, the fibroblasts become weakened and produce less collagen. This is why the skin becomes more flaccid”, he says.

The drop in estrogen also affects glycosaminoglycans, components of the extracellular matrix that promote hydration. “This causes the skin to become drier after the age of 40. And all these changes together cause the dermis to thin, and thus wrinkles appear”, says the dermatologist.

“Estrogen is a holy medicine for the skin. When the patient can take hormone replacement therapy, it’s great. Because it helps a lot in this aesthetic aspect as well”, highlights Del Nero.

Hypoestrogenism, which is the reduction in circulating estrogen levels, acts as a catalyst in the aging process and the drop in collagen production that begins much earlier, around the age of 25, observes Luiz Francisco Cintra Baccaro, associate professor at the Department of Tocogynecology of the Faculty of Medical Sciences of Unicamp (State University of Campinas), member of the National Specialized Commission on Climacteric of Febrasgo (Brazilian Federation of Gynecology and Obstetrics Associations) and the Climacteric Commission of SBRH (Brazilian Society of Human Reproduction) .

But hormone replacement needs to have the correct indication. The recommendation for treatment is made through clinical diagnosis, when there is the presence of vasomotor symptoms, such as hot flashes, excessive sweating and tachycardia, genitourinary syndrome, with the occurrence of vaginal dryness, recurrent urinary infections and pain during sexual intercourse, to preserve the mass bone, when there is a risk of osteoporosis, and when early menopause occurs, that is, the interruption of menstruation for more than 12 consecutive months before the age of 40.

Even so, reinforces the doctor, it is necessary to evaluate the contraindications. Among the main ones are hormone-dependent neoplasms, such as breast cancer, uterine cancer (endometrium and smooth muscles) and ovarian cancer, predisposition to thrombosis, stroke, coronary artery disease, among other conditions.

“Observational studies show that the skin improves with estrogen, but there is a lack of data from clinical trials to prove that this happens. In any case, changes in the skin are not a primary indication for hormone replacement if there are no vasomotor symptoms, for example”, he reinforces Cintra Baccaro.

To improve the changes that hormonal drops cause to the skin, the gynecologist advises that patients see a dermatologist.

Specialist Maria Paula Del Nero states that the use of nourishing creams, with active ingredients such as purified peptides, proxylane and hyaluronic acid helps to keep mature skin hydrated and more vibrant.

In addition to skincare at home, in-office procedures performed by qualified doctors reduce sagging and wrinkles.

“The main ones are collagen bio-stimulators, which are injected into the desired region and make the skin firmer. Of all the treatments, they are the ones with the most scientific studies proving their effectiveness”, says the dermatologist.

But technologies such as microfocused ultrasound, lasers and radiofrequency also have good results in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles and fine lines. “These machines provide greater firmness and improve skin quality.”

The more fluid hyaluronic acid, called skinbooster, helps with hydration and reduces wrinkles and fine lines.

“The patient must undergo a medical consultation to find out what her real needs are and which techniques are most suitable. Generally, the best results are obtained with a combination of treatments”, observes Del Nero.

Lawyer Ivone Machado, 53, began to feel hot flashes, irritability and insomnia this year and soon started hormone replacement therapy.

As she has always taken preventative care of her skin, she says that the impacts of the climacteric, such as sagging and dryness, were less. Even so, he reinforced treatments with collagen biostimulators, radiofrequency and hyaluronic acid.

Ivone also does physical activity at least three times a week and maintains a balanced diet.

For her, in addition to paying attention to her health, it is important to have good self-esteem. “I like to smile, I like life, I like myself. That’s the basis of everything, the rest just comes as a complement”, she says.

Understand how the procedures work

Collagen biostimulators

With different commercial names, collagen biostimulators are derived from substances such as poly-L-lactic acid (Sculptra) and calcium hydroxyapatite (Radiesse).

These substances are applied with cannulas under the skin and generate a controlled inflammatory reaction at the site, which stimulates fibroblasts to manufacture more collagen.

Bio-stimulators are indicated to treat sagging and improve the quality of the skin when it is very thin and wrinkled.

The products take around a month to take effect, reach their peak of action three months after the procedure and the results last up to two years.

Microfocused ultrasound

The equipment emits ultrasound waves that reach different layers of the skin and generate an inflammatory response that stimulates collagen production. The effects begin to be seen one month after the session and last up to a year. Depending on each patient, one to three applications may be indicated, with an interval of 30 days.

The device’s tips are manipulated by the professional so that the frequency reaches an area called muscular fascia, causing this tissue to contract and lift, promoting a lifting effect.

Lasers

Lasers act on the skin through chromophores, which are molecules capable of absorbing light. The devices currently used in dermatology are fractionated, which means that their light beams are divided into several microbeams, allowing them to reach deep layers of the skin in a less aggressive way.

To treat sagging, both ablative and non-ablative lasers are used. Ablatives, such as CO2, remove the superficial layers of the skin and generate a smoothing effect. Therefore, they need to be applied with topical anesthetics and require a longer recovery time — the skin peels and takes around ten days to regenerate. Non-ablative treatments preserve the epidermis.

Both are capable of stimulating collagen production and improving quality. Based on a medical assessment, the professional will decide which is best suited for the patient and how many sessions are necessary.

Radio frequency

The heating generated by radiofrequency reaches the deepest layers of the skin and stimulates fibroblasts, which will produce collagen.

It is a non-invasive and painless procedure. The heat from the machine is controlled and does not cause burns.

For the stimulation of new collagen fibers to occur, an interval of at least 20 days must be maintained between sessions — generally, three are recommended to obtain good results.

Hyaluronic acid

Hyaluronic acid in its more fluid version has the ability to improve skin quality when it is injected superficially under the dermis. The product is known as skinbooster, it promotes hydration and smoothes fine lines around the eyes, mouth, chest and neck.

Just like collagen, hyaluronic acid also exists in our body. But it is also reproduced in the laboratory so that it can be applied in larger quantities, using syringes and cannulas, promoting volume and support to some areas of the face, in addition to hydrating the skin.

The material is reabsorbed naturally by the body and lasts around eight months.

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