Discover Ilha dos Frades, a paradise for celebrities in Bahia – 02/28/2024 – Tourism

A group of leaping dolphins accompanies the vessel an hour after the catamaran departed from the nautical terminal in Bahia. Everyone runs to try to take photos, but the cetaceans are so light that they quickly disappear in the immensity of Todos-os-Santos Bay, the largest in Brazil. When you look back, you realize that Salvador is far away. On the boat, between the announcement of the sale of cajá caipirinha and a bunch of foreigners rolling to the ground to the sound of “Vem, Neném”, a classic from Harmonia do Samba, the emerald green sea dominates, with a chunk of land covered of Atlantic forest just ahead.

Welcome to Ilha dos Frades, one of the most sought after island territories on the outskirts of the Bahian capital this summer season, both by Salvadorans and tourists from all over the world. Things from Bahia, with its flair for always creating the hit of the season, the Carnival dance that takes over the entire country and, come summer and summer, usually reveals to us a “new” paradise (if it’s not so new , revamps and transforms it as such).

Discovered at the beginning of the 16th century, the island occupies an area close to the center of the bay and belongs to the city of Salvador. It is rumored that the origin of the name is the murder by the Tupinambás of friars who disembarked there with the aim of catechizing them.

The piece of land surrounded by the sea still records a sad history, dating back to the 19th century, when the island became a warehouse for ships linked to the slave trade that headed towards the Recôncavo Baiano. There, they stopped to undergo a period of quarantine.

On her third visit to Salvador, nutritionist Juliana Campos, 43, set aside a day to get to know the place. “I’m impressed by the color of the sea. It’s so beautiful, it looks like the Caribbean”, she said. “Not to mention the pleasant temperature of the water, the cozy atmosphere, the smiles on people’s faces.”

The two historic little churches on Ilha dos Frades, located on opposite sides, also seduced her, especially the one in Loreto, which she visited on a boat trip, crossing from the south to the north. “They are beautiful, I would even say bucolic and very well preserved. I was moved,” she said.

To get to Frades, some access points are more popular. From maritime terminals in Salvador, for example, private boats can be rented for a private journey that lasts, on average, 40 minutes (price to be agreed). Tourist, catamaran and schooner services range from R$70 to R$150 per head. For each route, it takes an hour and a half, starting from the Bahia Nautical Tourist Terminal, right behind Market Modelo. It’s best to be smart and book in advance. Depending on navigation conditions, the tour may be cancelled.

There are also smaller vessels leaving from the port of Madre de Deus, a city 65 km from the capital of Bahia. It is a recommended route option, mainly for those who are staying or for those who want to spend the whole day on the island. It’s more affordable, but you need to be careful and check whether the vessel actually has authorization to operate.

Boats usually leave every 30 minutes, on a short journey, between 10 and 20 minutes, towards Paramana beach. Depending on the day, the number of passengers, the vessel and, of course, the negotiation, the cost is around R$50 (round trip).

It is in the northern part of Ilha dos Frades that the church of Loreto is located, on the beach of the same name, which is closest to the city of Madre de Deus. Built in 1645, the Nossa Senhora do Loreto chapel was renovated and redesigned over the next two centuries. With a scenographic feel, the Catholic building has its altar with neoclassical elements. If in the past it served as the farm’s headquarters, today, the church mansion has become a center of memory.

With the capacity to seat one hundred people, this seaside setting often serves as an environment for weddings of politicians, businessmen, artists, the rich and famous. A party at the venue costs from R$70,000.

It is, however, in the southern area of ​​the island that most tourists get off to enjoy the day (there is a fee of R$25 at the terminal). From Ponta de Nossa Senhora do Guadalupe you can see the blue flag flying in the sand. It is a type of seal that represents the ecological certification award for beaches, boats and marinas that follow a protocol, with a series of socio-environmental criteria, from water quality to environmental education, including sustainable tourism.

Ilha dos Frades has its urban and environmental management designed and supported by Fundação Baía Viva. Created in 1999 by Bahian businessmen, the entity says its purpose is to recover and enhance the islands of Todos-os-Santos Bay, in addition to contributing to tourist revitalization. “Two decades have been dedicated to sustainable development and rescuing the tourism potential of Todos-os-Santos Bay”, says Isabela Suarez, 43, president of the entity.

In total, it is estimated that the island has 15 beaches (many of them deserted) in an area of ​​around 9 million square meters of Atlantic forest, which is equivalent, more or less, to six times the area of ​​Ibirapuera. Its shape resembles a 15-pointed star.

From April to August, the rains tend to be a little more frequent, but they don’t compromise the trip, according to residents who open their homes for tourists to take photos. In any case, in times of climate crisis, it is difficult to know what to expect from the seasons.

In general, just like the nutritionist from Campinas, foreigners plan to spend just one day. It’s worth investing a little more time and, of course, money, to extend the visit for at least two nights and thus discover its attractions more calmly.

One thing is certain: you can’t talk about Ilha dos Frades without mentioning the Preta restaurant. The environment became a meeting point for celebrities, such as Ivete Sangalo, Ney Matogrosso and the families of Gil and Caetano, among many others.

In the tiny village, the look of the house is integrated with nature. The space itself is attractive. Full of funky pieces (things belonging to my mother, grandmother, great-grandmother), discarded or fragmented furniture, unconnected crockery and other items linked to chef Angeluci Figueiredo, known as Preta, the restaurant is always very popular.

From octopus vinaigrette to lobster with sweet potato, accompanied by ciriguela drinks, everything on the menu reinforces the inventiveness of Bahian cuisine. Preta, a former photographer, also runs Pretoca, a guesthouse that operates in parallel, connected to the restaurant.

As you descend the slope towards the pier, take a path to the right when you are very close to the beach and climb the steps towards the Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe church, dating from the 17th century, also restored. Built by the Portuguese at the top of the summit, the little church has a privileged location, from where you have a panoramic view of the sea and Salvador. If you look closely, on the right, you can still see Itaparica.

While waiting for the catamaran at the Ponta de Nossa Senhora de Guadalupe Maritime Terminal, which would take her back to the mainland, the tourist from Campinas observed the organization and cleanliness of the area. “Everything is very pleasant. I should have stayed here for at least two nights,” said Campos. “I have no doubt, I will be back!”

Upon returning to the mainland, it is possible to watch the spectacle of the sunset that colors São Salvador in the eyes of those coming from the sea. A variation of golden tones falls on the Lacerda elevator, the tops of the Pelourinho churches, the facades of historic buildings and the simple seaside addresses of Cidade Baixa.