Bororé Island: ecotourism seduces cyclists and vegans in SP – 04/06/2024 – Daily Life

Between filling the ferry and crossing a section of the dam, the whole ride doesn’t take ten minutes. When stepping on dry land, surrounded by the waters of Billings, the feeling one gets is that of being in a kind of metropolitan countryside, with chickens scratching here and there, shimeji plantations and orchards full of orange-watermelon. Still taken over by nature, the place preserves a generous portion of Atlantic forest, where marmosets feast on grasshoppers at snack time.

There are, however, other beings who join the chorus, especially on weekends. We can say that it is a diverse troupe, made up of that hipster crowd, like Santa Ceciliers and Ipojuquers, cyclists from Jardins, nature hikers (or “nature lovers”) and the discreet group that comes from all over to watch birds — the “birdwatchers”. . These are enchanted by the high and strident notes of the white-eyed gully.

The name of the place seems to endorse this, let’s say, trip: Ilha do Bororé. In fact, it is not an island, but rather a peninsula within an APA (Environmental Protection Area), located on the extreme south side of the capital of São Paulo, in the district of Grajaú. There is a dirt road that connects the neighborhood to the city, as well as access by ferry.

To further enhance this aura of escapism, bororé is the name of a poisonous substance that some original groups used on arrows, as a defensive weapon.

“The Island is sensational. It has a positive vibe. It feels like we’re not in São Paulo”, comments Carlos Gama Naggar, 57, HR manager. Carlão, as he is known, brought a group of 43 cyclists to visit Bororé. They left from Lorena and Joaquim Eugênio de Lima avenues, in Jardins. They cycled 43 km, passed through several neighborhoods and stopped at the Island’s viewpoint, for a break accompanied by food and drinks — after all, the group is called Bike’n Beer.

Created in 2010, the collective is very inclusive, explains Carlão. It has more or less a thousand members. They are businessmen, traders, doctors, dentists. “The cool thing is to accept the place’s proposal”, he says, accustomed to cycling for 25 years.

The Mirante bar welcomes people from different corners. “Tourists are 95%”, calculates Wanderley Ramos, 45, Mustache. In his opinion, the fact that the ferry increased its transport capacity from 17 to 33 vehicles around two months ago favored this boom. “After crossing the dam, people forget about the other side. It’s a different atmosphere.”

In paradise, however, not everything is rosy. Mustode criticizes the lack of infrastructure in this atmosphere dominated by bush and water. Basic things are missing, he continues, like sidewalks. “These problems are not exclusive to the Island, but the lack of care here is glaring.”

Having been in the neighborhood for 36 years, Anatalia Jesus Rocha Siriano, 58, likes to say that “obligation comes first, then fun”. President of Amib (Residents Association of Ilha do Bororé), states that tourism needs to arrive in an organized way, with a minimum of structure. “The water from the artesian well in many homes is contaminated by heavy metals,” she says. “Here, there is no basic sanitation. We are unassisted by public authorities.”

São Paulo City Hall said that the problem lies with the state. Sabesp, in turn, informed that the municipality needs to make arrangements for the regularization of land use and occupation, since there are legal impediments for the sanitation structure to be implemented on the Island, as the region is also part of spring recovery area. According to the company, the neighborhood has around 80% of its territory covered by Atlantic forest, in addition to areas of irregular occupation.

It’s a good idea to bring cash because many places don’t accept cards, such as Armazém do Edinho. The building is from the end of the 19th century, estimates the owner, Edson Morelli Manzano, 52. It is in front of another historical monument on the island, the chapel of São Sebastião, a work in Portuguese baroque style, whose inauguration year, 1904, is marked on the facade.

The trade spanned generations. It belonged to his grandfather, passed through the hands of aunts, uncles, mother and father until it reached yours. “It has a little bit of everything”, explains Edinho, as he is known. “Rice, beans, hygiene products and, of course, the island’s classic cachacinha: pinga de cambuci.” The dose costs R$ 3 — abundant in the region, the fruit is typical of the Atlantic forest.

In an environment with so many delicacies, there are, however, those who cross the ferry just to eat shimeji bobó (R$ 60), at lunch at the CoguLi farm, a business venture of the couple Ligiane Antunes, 40, and Reginaldo Oliveira, 45. Vegan-based dish with pumpkin cabochan, coconut milk, palm oil and, of course, shimeji, it also comes with rice, soy protein farofa, salad with edible flowers and (guess what?) cambuci juice.

“We work to attract conscious tourism to the island”, explains Antunes. Alongside their caramel dog Zoe, 3, the fungi farmer couple also opens the doors of their rural property to accommodation, with daily rates ranging from R$80 to R$200 (couple, with breakfast) and a camping area (R$ 55). “We welcome vegans, vegetarians and people with a more environmental footprint”, adds Oliveira.

Dealing with themes that orbit the universe of preservation is one of the focuses of the educational projects of Casa Ecoativa, a cultural occupation project in an old mansion, which is next to an imposing fig tree. Under its shadow, children engage in activities that promote the revival of old street games.

“Just arrive”, warns Emerson Ribeiro, 37, known as Emerson Bororé, actor and one of the space’s coordinators. Playing hide and seek, climbing trees and using earth’s clay as paint are actions that awaken the playful side, “rekindling the bond with mother earth”, he explains.

Now retired, his father worked on the ferry for 25 years. “It’s what sets us apart. It’s literally a game changer.” We can say that in different aspects: on the Island there is no gas station or butcher shop, nor pharmacy, just small grocery stores. You need to cross the dam to buy almost everything there.

This movement may be laborious for some, but it is already incorporated into the habit of the “Bororans”. “There are those who defend the construction of a bridge”, says the boy. “I’m against it. Bororé Island is only the way it is thanks to the ferry.”

With her nails embedded in dirt from, in her words, “poking the ground, moving the earth”, Maria Eduarda e Silva, 31, designer, walked along the banks of Billings, near the dock. She took Sunday off to enjoy the forest. “São Paulo is a city of contrasts,” she said. “Of every kind imaginable.”

She plans to return to the island to visit the Bororé Municipal Natural Park, an area created as environmental compensation for the Rodoanel Sul. “Our hope is in nature,” she said, moments before facing the route that would take her back to the concrete jungle and asphalt.