Bolivia: discover Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca – 02/20/2024 – Tourism

When thinking about Copacabana, it is very common to associate the name with one of the most famous beaches in Brazil.

But the “real” Copacabana, which gave rise to the name of the Rio neighborhood, is in Bolivia, on the banks of Lake Titicaca.

Jhonny Ucedo, director of culture and tourism at Bolivia’s Copacabana, says that the name of the city has existed for some time and was even used by the Incas, who lived in the region.

“The origin of this name comes from the expression kota kahuana, from the Aymara dialect, which means ‘view of the lake'”, he says.

The language is one of the official languages ​​of the inhabitants to this day, in addition to Spanish.

The name is also linked to the Catholic religion, as the city’s patron saint is Our Lady of Copacabana.

In 1583, the saint, who also existed in Hispanic culture, but with the name of Our Lady of Candlemas, was taken to Bolivian territory by Spanish colonizers and, since then, began to be worshiped by the faithful.

In the 18th century, with smuggling in the region, an image was taken to Rio de Janeiro.

“It arrived here through peruleiros, traders who brought various goods from the current region that today belongs to Bolivia to Brazil”, explains historian Milton Teixeira.

“Gangs operated in the region and even brought silver dust. During this period, the Bolivian saint came along. Some say it was the original, and some say it was a replica.”

It is from there that the history of the Copacabana neighborhood begins to be told.

Copacabana in Rio and its importance

In the 18th century, Copacabana, in Rio de Janeiro, was called Sacopenapã, which, in Tupi, means “the noise and flapping of wings of socós”, which are birds.

Upon arriving in Brazil, the saint was taken to the Misericórdia chapel, which is today the Church of Nossa Senhora do Bonsucesso, in the center of the capital of Rio de Janeiro.

But, according to Teixeira, the image of the saint was not well accepted and, subsequently, was taken to another location.

“The Misericórdia brothers said that it attracted strange people, that it was not something good for the region. It seems that there was a negative reaction at the time. So, they changed location”, says the historian.

“At the end of the 18th century, on an uncertain date, the (image) was transferred to the Copacabana stone, which is today the current Copacabana Fort.”

In 1746, a chapel dedicated to the saint was built on the rock where the fort now stands.

Since then, the place has become a hotspot for parties, pilgrimages and other celebrations.

The Copacabana neighborhood was an almost uninhabited beach until the end of the 19th century.

It was in July 1892, with the opening of a tunnel that connected Copacabana to the neighborhood of Botafogo, that the region began to receive residents.

At that time, due to the saint’s influence, the name inherited from the Bolivian city was already used and no longer its name in Tupi.

“It was a very personal and intense devotion, which influenced the name”, says Teixeira.

“The Portuguese came here, abandoned their lands, and they could only count on divine protection. Hence the importance of chapels, churches and saints.”

Years later, at the beginning of the 20th century, the name Copacabana also began to be used for the strip of sand, which was known as Praia da Igrejinha.

At the beginning of the last century, there were many cannons in the fort, and the order was that they could not fire backwards, precisely because the church was close and in the line of fire.

After a few years, the church was destroyed, and the saint remained in private hands.

In 1956, President Juscelino Kubitschek ordered the chapel to be rebuilt, still in the Copacabana Fort.

The problem is that, years later, as it was a military stronghold, the place was not considered ideal for receiving believers.

“It was a time of military dictatorship. The fort housed political prisoners. There weren’t many, but there were some”, says the historian.

“The visit of the faithful bothered the Army, as they didn’t want many people there. They could see what they shouldn’t”, says the historian.

In 1976, the image was transferred to the parish of Ressurreição, in the Arpoador region, on the border between Copacabana and the neighboring neighborhood of Ipanema, where it remains today.

Blessings to cars and party

The Virgin of Copacabana is still very influential in the Bolivian city.

Since it was brought by the Spanish, it has gained strength among the faithful, mainly due to the various miracles attributed to it, highlights Ucedo.

Every February 2nd, his arrival in the region is celebrated with an official party. This year the 441st anniversary of the event will be celebrated.

During the celebration, the bendición de las movilidades (blessings of mobilities, in free translation) takes place.

This is the time to celebrate with typical dances, and one of the attractions is the baptism of vehicles, done by priests with alcoholic beverages and holy water.

The drink can be beer, wine, champagne or something else that the person wants to use.

According to Copacabana’s director of culture and tourism, the important thing is to pour some of the liquid into the car.

According to Ucedo, the festival receives almost 18 thousand people over the three days of celebration. There are also celebrations at other times of the year.

“The devotees of the Virgin on the Peruvian side [do lago Titicaca] celebrate on the 4th, 5th and 6th of August. On November 15, Bolivians from Cochabamba come in a caravan to celebrate,” says Ugedo.

The ritual with alcoholic beverages takes place because Bolivians believe in Mother Earth, also known as Pachamama in Andean culture, and the deity is always presented with food or drinks.

From 10 am, the faithful and drivers gather to bless the vehicles, which are also covered with flowers and other decorations.

Ucedo highlights that there is no specific reason for choosing automobiles as their “main goods”, but he says that this tradition began dozens of years ago and is followed to this day.

“They (drivers) ask that nothing happens to them on the way, so that the car doesn’t fail and that no accidents occur,” he says.

Those who are unable to participate in the festival can also go to the city’s church to receive the blessing in their car at any other time of the year.

The ritual takes place every day, at specific times.

Religious and foreign tourism

Bolivia’s Copacabana is just over a three-hour bus ride from the capital, La Paz.

The city attracts those who do religious tourism or want to go to more isolated islands on Lake Titicaca, which are an hour away by boat.

According to Copacabana’s director of culture and tourism, “80% of the national public comes for religious reasons.”

He also adds that the sanctuary where the virgin of Copacabana is located is one of the largest in the world, which attracts many visitors.

Vitor de Pieri, professor at the Department of Tourism at the State University of Rio de Janeiro (Uerj), reinforces the religious importance of the place.

“It is a city that is the gateway to some tourist attractions, such as the Island of the Sun and the Island of the Moon, sacred places for the Aymaras, the Incas, and the original people of the region”, he explains.

Foreigners visit the place to relax or as part of an itinerary to visit the lake’s islands.

Content creator Marina Guaragna, 29, discovered the city during a two-month backpacking trip through Bolivia with her boyfriend.

“Talking to Bolivians, we discovered that there was a beach called Copacabana, we decided to research it and discovered that this was the ‘original’ Copacabana and that our name came from it”, he says.

Marina praises the region’s hospitality and good cuisine and adds that it is a possible route for anyone traveling through South America.

“The city is close to the border with Peru – about 15 minutes by bus – and is the main departure point for visiting Isla del Sol, one of the most beautiful places in Bolivia”, he says.

Bolivian Copacabana x Rio Copacabana

Although the Bolivian city gave its name to Rio’s beach and neighborhood, the place may not be so inviting if tourists don’t like being cold.

Copacabana is one of the main cities surrounding one of the largest lakes in South America and is more than 3,800 meters above sea level.

This means that, even in summer, temperatures remain low, varying between 10ºC and 15ºC, even at the height of the season.

Very different from Rio de Janeiro, where it is hot almost all year round.

Marina also highlights other differences between the two Copacabanas.

“The original Copacabana beach has no space for bathers or to enjoy the beach,” he says.

“It’s a short strip of sand, and its waters are filled with docks and boats. A peaceful place, but the sand is not clean for tourists.”

The place can still be considered somewhat rustic by some tourists looking for luxury and comfort.

Currently, according to the city’s latest census, Bolivian Copacabana has 16,500 inhabitants.

Copacabana in Rio de Janeiro has grown and developed.

“In 1917, there were already 45 streets in Copacabana. Then, it went through an urbanization process”, says Pieri.

Around 146,000 people live in the neighborhood, according to the 2010 Census — data about the neighborhood in the most recent count, from 2022, has not yet been released.

In other words, almost nine Bolivian Copacabanas could fit into Rio’s Copacabana.

The neighborhood and beach in Rio de Janeiro also became known worldwide and were the scene of historic events, such as the Revolta dos 18 do Forte.

The failed military uprising against then-president Epitácio Pessoa and election winner Artur Bernardes, on July 5, 1922, is remembered on the beach to this day by a bronze sculpture of lieutenant Siqueira Campos, who led the movement.

Much better known and popular among tourists is the sculpture on the promenade near the fort, in honor of the writer Carlos Drummond de Andrade, who lived much of his life in the neighborhood.

The most famous hotel in Brazil is also located on the waterfront, the Copacabana Palace, which has hosted many celebrities and collected notable events over the last 100 years, such as the point-blank shooting that President Washington Luís was shot at by his lover in 1929.

It is impossible not to mention the “biggest New Year’s Eve in the world” on the sands of Copacabana, which originated in tributes to the African deity Iemanjá and influenced the customs of year-end festivities throughout the country.

“Copacabana is a neighborhood that also has a lot of Brazilian history,” says Pieri.