Who has the courage to open a restaurant in the center of SP? – 03/22/2024 – Gross Kitchen

Let’s start with the good news. Good, no: spectacular.

Janaína Torres (formerly Rueda), voted the best chef in the world, is from the center of São Paulo. She lives and works in the region, where she runs three restaurants, a snack bar and an ice cream shop.

She and her partner Jefferson Rueda were instrumental in the partial recovery of the center, which had been abandoned for as long as I can remember.

When she opened Bar da Dona Onça, in 2008, Janaina made a very risky bet – they are the ones that pay the most, given the enormous chance that the bettor has of crashing. She won and encouraged others to do the same.

Since then, the Copan building has become a hype. Parts of República and Vila Buarque were taken over from restaurants and bars full of smelling people with big bank accounts. Neighboring Santa Cecília and Barra Funda became bar hubs.

It seemed that the center would finally take off, as revitalized areas of many cities throughout the rich world had.

It took off, but it was a chicken flight. The center’s chronic problems – poor maintenance, dirt, lack of security – have worsened. Opening a business there remains as risky as ever.

Would you have the courage to invest your money in a restaurant in the center of São Paulo? If I had (money), I wouldn’t have (courage).

As if the spread of Cracolândia and the absolute incompetence of the authorities in making the region habitable were not enough, the electricity and/or water companies are actively acting to create chaos.

In an incident that still lacks a plausible explanation, the region has suffered a collapse in electricity supply since Monday (18). On Friday afternoon (22), the problem had still not been resolved by Enel.

The concessionaire tried to push the bushing to Sabesp. She said a water company excavation ruptured the center’s underground wiring; Sabesp returned the cucumber and said it had nothing to do with the thing.

When the eggs are ready, no one takes over the pineapple. The mayor took two days to issue a note of repudiation. The governor is too busy in Israelfawning over the genocidal Benjamin Netanyahu.

Meanwhile, in the city center, restaurants and bars suffer huge losses. In addition to the days without being able to open, the stock of perishables went to waste with the refrigerators turned off.

Vitor Pires, from the O Mirandês restaurant, in Santa Cecília, made a long and meaningful video protesting the situation. Lierson Mattenhauer Jr, from the Xepa bar, in Vila Buarque, was completely radicalized.

Unable to work in the kitchen, he decided to roast meat on a barbecue set up on the street. The storm came and put out its ember.

Vitor, Lierson, Janaína and several others – Rômulo, Thiago, Edu, Olivier, Julio, Pablo etc. etc. – they resist because they are passionate about the center. It happens that passions die of exhaustion.

When everyone leaves tired, who will be left to turn off the light?

Do not wait. He forgets. Enel has already taken care of this.

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