The pasta made from insects that divides Italians

The pasta made from insects that divides Italians

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As insect farming increases in Europe, so does hostility to the idea. BBC reporter Sofia Bettiza tried BBC cricket pasta On a farm near the Alps in northern Italy, containers with millions of hopping and loudly chirping crickets are stacked on top of each other. These crickets are about to become food. The process is simple: they are frozen, boiled, dried and then pulverized. Here at the Italian Cricket Farm, the largest insect farm in the country, nearly a million crickets are turned into food ingredients every day. Ivan Albano, who runs the farm, opens a container to reveal a light brown flour that can be used in the production of pasta, bread, pancakes, energy bars – and even sports drinks. Eating crickets, ants and worms has been common in parts of the world for thousands of years. Now, after the European Union (EU) approved the sale of insects for human consumption earlier this year, will there be a change in attitude across Europe? Well, nowhere in Europe is there more resistance to eating bugs than in Italy, according to data from global public opinion firm YouGov, and the objections come from the top – the government has already taken steps to ban their use in pizza and pasta. “We will oppose, by any means and anywhere, this madness that impoverishes our agriculture and our culture,” wrote Deputy Prime Minister Matteo Salvini on Facebook. But is all that about to change? Several Italian producers have been perfecting pasta, pizza and cricket snacks. “What we do here is very sustainable,” says Ivan. “To produce a kilogram of cricket powder, we only use about 12 liters of water”, he adds, noting that producing the same amount of cow protein requires thousands of liters of water. Raising insects also only requires a fraction of the land used to produce meat. Given the pollution caused by the meat and dairy industry, more and more scientists believe that insects could hold the key to combating climate change. At a restaurant near Turin, chef Simone Loddo has adapted his recipe for fresh pasta, which dates back almost 1,000 years – the pasta is now 15% cricket powder. The place emanates a strong smell of nuts. Some of the diners balk at trying the cricket tagliatelle, but those who do – myself included – are amazed at how good it tastes. Cricket tagliatelle served with BBC bacon and zucchini In addition to its flavour, cricket powder is packed with vitamins, fibre, minerals and amino acids. A dish contains more sources of iron and magnesium, for example, than a regular steak. But is this a realistic option for those looking to eat less meat? The main issue is the price. “If you want to buy cricket-based food, it’s going to be expensive,” says Ivan. “Crillo flour is a luxury product. It costs around 60 euros (R$323) per kilo. If you take cricket pasta, for example, a package can cost up to 8 euros (R$48).” That’s up to eight times more than regular supermarket dough. For now, insect foods remain a niche option in Western societies, as farmers can sell poultry and beef at lower prices. “The meat I produce is much cheaper than cricket flour and is of very good quality,” says Claudio Lauteri, who owns a farm near Rome that has been in his family for four generations. But it’s not just about price. It’s about social acceptance. Across Italy, the number of people living to be 100 or older is rising rapidly. Many point to the Mediterranean diet as the Holy Grail for a healthy lifestyle. “Italians have been eating meat for centuries. In moderation, it’s definitely healthy,” says Claudio. He believes that insect-based food could be a threat to Italian culinary tradition – something universally sacred in this country. “These products are rubbish,” he says. “We are not used to them, they are not part of the Mediterranean diet. And they can be a threat to people: we don’t know what eating insects can do to our bodies.” “I am absolutely against these new food products. I refuse to eat them.” Claudio Lauteri says insect foods are a threat to the BBC Mediterranean diet As insect breeding increases in Europe, so does hostility to the idea. The issue has become yet another point in the culture war and mobilizes the radical right. The EU’s decision to approve insects for human consumption was described by a member of the radical right Brothers of Italy party as “bordering on madness”. food superpower,” created a ministry for made-in-Italy products when she was elected, with the stated aim of “safeguarding tradition.” “Insect products are hitting supermarket shelves! Flour, grubs – good, delicious,” she said in a disgusted tone in a video. Amid concerns that insects could be associated with Italian cuisine, three government ministers have announced four decrees seeking to crack down on the practice. “It is critical that these flours are not to be confused with food made in Italy,” said Francesco Lollobrigida, agriculture minister. Feeding insects is not just dividing opinion in Italy. In Poland, it has become a hot topic ahead of this year’s elections. In March, politicians from the two main parties accused each other of passing policies that would force citizens to eat bugs – the leader of the main opposition party, Donald Tusk, branded the government a “worm soup promoter.” Meanwhile, Austria, Belgium and The Netherlands are more receptive to eating insects. In Austria, they eat dried insects as an appetizer, and Belgians are open to eating larvae in shakes and energy bars, burgers and soups. “Unfortunately there is still a lot of misinformation about eating insects,” says Daniel Scognamiglio , who runs the restaurant that serves cricket tagliatelle. “I received hate, I was criticized. Food tradition is sacred to many people. They don’t want to change their eating habits.” But he has spotted a shift, and says more people – often out of curiosity – are ordering the cricket-based products on his menu. With the global population now surpassing eight billion, it is feared that the planet’s resources cannot meet the food needs of so many people. World agricultural production will have to increase by 70%, according to estimates by the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. Switching to eco-friendly proteins – like insects – could become a necessity. Until now, possibilities for producing and marketing insect food have been limited. With the approval of the EU, the expectation is that, with the growth of the sector, prices will drop significantly. Ivan says that he already receives many orders for his products in restaurants and supermarkets. “The impact on the environment is almost zero. We are a piece of the puzzle that can save the planet.”

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