Retinol helps control acne and acts on aging – 09/11/2023 – Balance

Over-the-counter retinol products are popular for good reason: In addition to helping control acne, they can improve the overall appearance of your skin and lessen the signs of aging. “They’re perfect for reducing fine lines and enlarged pores, improving skin texture, and evening out skin tone,” says Hope Mitchell, a dermatologist in Perrysburg, Ohio.

However, they can also be difficult to use. Retinol products are manufactured by different brands, come in different formulations and must be applied carefully, especially at the beginning, as they can cause irritation.

Here’s what you need to know.

how they work

Retinols fall under compounds called retinoids, which are all derived from vitamin A, says Mitchell. Prescription retinoids have been available since the 1970s and are found in acne medications such as Accutane. Retinol is a milder retinoid, so it is accessible without a prescription.

The substance affects the skin in several ways. Increases cell turnover, “which causes natural exfoliation,” says Divya Shokeen, a cosmetic dermatologist in Manhattan Beach, California. This helps clear clogged pores, which can treat acne and prevent future breakouts.

Retinol also increases the production of collagen, a protein that improves skin firmness and elasticity. “From the age of 20, we start to lose around 1% of our skin’s collagen per year”, points out Marisa Garshick, a dermatologist in New York. As this happens, she says, the skin begins to become saggy and wrinkled. So, retinol works to counteract this process.

Additionally, it can diminish dark spots. “Retinols can help reduce excessive melanin production, especially in areas where it is concentrated and causes discoloration,” says Shokeen.

A 2015 clinical trial found that when women between the ages of 40 and 55 used a retinol product daily for a year, it reduced the appearance of crow’s feet by 44% and skin discoloration by 84%. Another clinical trial from 2009 reported that daily use of a retinol cream in women ages 40 to 60 over a 26-week period reduced the appearance of fine, deep wrinkles.

How to choose the right product

Even though you can buy a retinol product at almost any drugstore or department store, Shokeen says it’s best to consult a dermatologist first to make sure retinol is right for you, especially if you’re breastfeeding or have a skin condition like eczema or rosacea. Pregnant women shouldn’t use retinols, adds Shokeen.

Generally, dermatologists advise starting with a gentle formulation to reduce the risk of redness and irritation. Choose a brand you trust and choose the lowest strength product, suggests Garshick. Don’t pay too much attention to the exact percentage of the substance advertised on the label, because brands use different retinol compounds—so a product that contains 1% retinol may be essentially equivalent to one that contains 0.3%.

If you have sensitive skin, you may want to look for a product that includes other ingredients — like ceramides, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid — to help counteract dryness and inflammation, recommends Garshick. Additionally, look for retinol products labeled as “encapsulated,” meaning the retinol is surrounded by a protective barrier and released into the skin over time, making it potentially less irritating.

When and how to use retinols

Above all, experts advise starting slowly and being patient.

“Retinols can take two to three months to start working, and the benefits may continue to improve over six months,” points out Garshick. It may take even longer for you to start seeing certain improvements with low-concentration retinols, she adds.

To ensure you’re not allergic to any of a product’s ingredients, Shokeen suggests first applying it to a small patch of skin on the inside of your arm. If your skin doesn’t become red, itchy, or swollen within minutes or hours, you can start using it elsewhere, she says.

Garshick advises using the product once or twice a week for the first two weeks to allow your skin to acclimatize, and always applying it at night, as retinol breaks down when exposed to the sun.

“If your skin starts to look very red and irritated, feels like it’s burning or stinging, or is very itchy,” it’s time to take a break, she says. Once your skin can handle a dose twice a week without becoming irritated, you can gradually increase the frequency until you reach daily use. You can also switch to a stronger product.

Mitchell recommends applying a non-comedogenic (non-pore-clogging) moisturizer after using retinol to counteract irritation and dryness. And as retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, it’s always a good idea to use sunscreen during the day.

Some people with acne may initially have more breakouts when they start using retinol, but these breakouts are usually brief and the skin soon improves, says Mitchell.

“Your skin may get worse before it starts to get better, so try not to get discouraged,” she recommends.

Translation Luiz Roberto M. Gonçalves