Find out what crudo is, fashion in restaurants, and where to eat – 01/15/2024 – Food
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One word has been popping up on restaurant menus in the country’s main gastronomic capitals in recent months: crudo.
The term means “raw” in Italian and Spanish and has been used to identify recipes that use raw fish or meat, such as carpaccios, tartares and even ceviches.
But what has gained space on menus is not exactly that. The main difference is in the cut, says chef Renata Vanzetto, who serves the dish in three of her restaurants. Crudo is cut into thicker slices, which differentiates it from carpaccio, for example, which is thinner, and tartar, which is cut into small cubes.
The meat or fish does not have to be completely raw, and can be cured or marinated — getting closer to a Peruvian ceviche or tiradito. There are versions with vegetables and fruits.
To accompany, citrus sauces and seasonings go well. The end result is served cold, something that suits the high temperatures. This is what made restaurants take the opportunity to include it in their seasonal menu changes.
Although it appears with a variety of preparations, it is in the form of fish that it has gained prominence.
Vanzetto prepares a version made with tuna slices marinated in seasoned olive oil at Mico, his Asian-inspired kitchen in São Paulo. The fish is served with crunchy lentils and lupins (a type of bean), chilli pepper and lemon, for R$77.
At Ema, his most original restaurant, crudo is made with fish of the day, usually valentine, served in tomato water with olive oil, sour cream and, on top of the blades, Mujol roe. The dish costs R$85.
At MeGusta, the chef combines tuna with Mexican salsa, avocado emulsion with coriander, toasted corn, red onion and pepper. For R$75, it comes with nachos.
Ping Yang’s crudo also has a spicy touch, which has become an instant classic since the Thai kitchen opened its doors last year in the capital of São Paulo.
Chef Mauricio Santi makes a variation of pla dip (R$62), a traditional recipe from the Asian country, prepared with white fish drizzled with nahm jim taleh sauce, a mixture of peppers, fish sauce, garlic and other items, finished with Shallot chips and makrut lime leaves.
It was from Peruvian cuisine that chef Cesar Costa drew inspiration for his new crudo at Corrutela, a signature kitchen in Vila Madalena, in São Paulo. The raw fish of the day is topped with orange sweet potato puree and confit pepper sauce, decorated with edible flowers. It costs R$58.
French chef Claude Troigros incorporated the raw dish when renewing the menu of his signature Chez Claude, with units in São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. There, it is made with fish seasoned with olive oil and lemon, served with radish and koshihikari rice (R$ 66).
The crudo trend is also seen in the capital of Rio de Janeiro. At Ocyá, a restaurant that debuted at 96th in the 50 Best ranking in Latin America, chef and fisherman Gerônimo Athuel waters slices of the fish of the day with braised tomato water ponzu. Entrance costs R$52. Dedicated to seafood, the restaurant does pioneering work in maturing fish.
With Brazilian touches, crudo is a highlight to start the meal at Marine, a restaurant at the Fairmont hotel in Copacabana, run by Frenchman Jérôme Dardillac. Raw boyfriend slices are served with a sweet and sour passion fruit and chili pepper sauce, plus starfruit and Cerrado nuts (R$75).
In addition to fish, meat can be part of this recipe. At Capincho, in Porto Alegre, chef Marcelo Schambeck uses seasoned raw beef as a solution to the inconsistent supply of fresh fish in the region. It is served with watermelon and rhubarb (a vegetable) for R$74.
New restaurants are tuned in and are already opening their doors with at least one crudo on the menu. At Krozta, a restaurant in São Paulo that serves pizzas and dishes with an Italian accent, the recipe involves fish cured for a day with salt and kombu seaweed.
Chef Thiago Maeda, from Koya 88 and Bagaceira, serves the thin slices over ricotta drizzled with olive oil. On top are pieces of pistachio, lemon and horseradish. The dish, made to share, costs R$55.
At the Taiwanese Aiô, opened five months ago in Vila Mariana, in the capital of São Paulo, crudo is prepared with robust slices of the freshest fish of the day, which varies between tuna, kingfish and bull’s eye.
It is accompanied by a ponzu sauce made with Taiwanese ingredients — such as soy sauce, katsuobushi and glutinous moti rice vinegar — plus house-made pepper sauce and, to add crunch, turnip cut into thin strips and toasted black rice popcorn. It is one of the entry highlights and costs R$52.
There is no shortage of different options to try the dish of the moment and stay tuned.
WHERE TO EAT RAW
Aiô
R. Áurea, 307, Vila Mariana, São Paulo, @aiorestaurante
Capincho
Pça. Dr. Maurício Cardoso, 61, Moinhos de Vento, Porto Alegre, @capinchorestaurant
Chez Claude
R. Conde de Bernadotte, 26 Q and R store, Leblon, Rio de Janeiro, @chez.claude
R. Prof. Tamandaré Toledo, 25, Itaim Bibi, São Paulo, @chez.claudesp
Corrutela
R. Medeiros de Albuquerque, 256, Vila Madalena, São Paulo, @corrutela
Emma
R. Bela Cintra, 1,551, Consolação, São Paulo, @restaurantema
Krozta
R. Jesuíno Pascoal, 39, Vila Buarque, São Paulo, @kroztaaa
Marine Resto
Av. Atlântica, 4,240, Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, @fairmontrio
I like it
R. Bela Cintra, 1,551, Consolação, São Paulo, @megusta.bar
Mico
R. Bela Cintra, 1,533, Jardins, São Paulo, @mico.restaurante
Ocyá
R. Aristides Espínola, 88, Leblon, Rio de Janeiro, @ocyá.rio
Ping Yang
R. Dr. Melo Alves, 767, Cerqueira César, São Paulo, @pingyangsp
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