Bureaucracy prohibits climbing on Pedra do Frances do Morumbi – 04/20/2023 – É Logo Ali
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As a teenager, living on the outskirts of São Paulo in Capão Redondo, in the south of the city, Alexandre Gazinhato joined Scouting. There, he became interested in mountaineering and, in particular, climbing. But these were, then, as they are today, sports practiced by half a dozen privileged people, mostly foreigners or children of immigrants, with money to buy equipment. Over time, trained in civil engineering and specialized in work safety, Gazinhato —better known as “French” because of the accent that came from the Italian family and that, for the neighborhood, “was all the same thing”—learned to climb , traveled to Italy and, in the Alps, perfected his practice. Back in Brazil, he decided to give more teenagers the opportunity to start in the activity. Thus was born the social institute (CAB) Clube Alpino Brasileiro.
CAB’s first project, already designed to encourage a taste for mountaineering among young people who did not have access to it, was the use of some stone walls located in Eduardo Ambuba Square, in Morumbi. There, with the other members of the club, he began to teach all those interested who passed by, but especially teenagers who were under socio-educational measures and who were taken to the place by the institutions responsible for them, the most elementary principles of climbing. But, as Frances says, that’s when things got complicated.
“Due to pressure from neighbors of luxury condominiums in the region, they ended up surrounding the square during the pandemic and prohibited us from using the routes already installed with our equipment for classes, until today the flaps to pass the ropes are still there, but we cannot use them. , not even accessing the area,” he explains. Despite relying on expert reports sent to the subprefecture and to the reporter, ensuring that the stone walls were safe enough for basic practice, the prefecture ended up interdicting access to the entire perimeter that was used, using as a pretext precisely an alleged lack of rock security sign.
Questioned, the Municipal Secretariat of Subprefectures, through the Campo Limpo Subprefecture, reported in a note that, contrary to what the technical reports forwarded by the report claim and which have been in the hands of the agency since 2019, “the said rock does not have favorable geological characteristics that allow for safe climbing”, and that the square is currently the target of “a project to revitalize the public space with security measures so that it becomes a place of contemplation of the aforementioned stone”.
In other words, no climbing the walls of Morumbi, kids. You will only be able to look at it, after such revitalization is finished.
With the interdiction, and tired of discussing bureaucracy with the mayor, Frances found another space to carry out his activity — a quarry in the neighborhood of Jaraguá, in the north of the capital, not far from the state park of the same name. Training and courses in quarries are frequent in countries with a greater tradition of the sport, but in Brazil authorizations are still rare, and, in practice, he admits that everything is still running very informally in the area. However, until someone gets in the way, and with the help of donations of equipment and a providential tractor loaned by the local sub-prefecture, the structure to receive the curious who do not want or cannot pay the expensive hours of indoor climbing can have the taste of thing in a completely free and playful way.
“With the valuable help of the tractor, which was loaned to us even without the formal authorization to use the space, we were able to clean the entire area and leave the rock ready for the activity in a safe way, and we will insist on creating a true culture of mountaineering in the country. Brazil, which can be another social tool of inclusion without elitism for children and adolescents who don’t have many opportunities”, explains the stubborn Frenchman, who hopes to extend the ropes in Jaraguá from next June, on Sunday mornings, with access Avenida Raimundo Pereira, at number 10.500.
“That place is the face of São Paulo, we are not going to give up”, he says, proud. The blog hopes that real life agrees with it.
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