Vichyssoise, the flex soup, is delicious hot or cold – 08/28/2023 – Recipes by Marcão
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One hour it’s cold, another time it’s hot. It’s the four seasons of the year on the same day. A temperature seesaw, weather roller coaster and a storm of commonplaces to fuel elevator talk.
It is a fact, however, that the weather is crazy these days, which affects my work: I don’t know if I publish a recipe for the cold or for the heat.
The solution I found for this week was vichyssoise –say “vixe, soaz”–, a soup that is excellent at any temperature. Cold front? Warm up the bagasse. Indian summer? Serve cold.
It is, in short, a flex recipe for the crazy winter of 2023.
The name is frufru, because it’s French, but vichyssoise is a very rustic food: a potato soup with leeks.
And pretty easy to do, too. Since everything will be blended in the blender, you don’t have to worry about chopping the ingredients into small or regular pieces.
You don’t even need to peel the potato. Wash to remove the earth and send a bullet.
In the classic recipe, vegetables are cooked in chicken broth. You can use water. It’ll be good (not so good), but I’ll argue for the broth.
Today it is reasonably easy to buy, frozen or in long-life packaging, the so-called culinary broths.
The term indicates that it is a broth itself, obtained by cooking the ingredients in water – as opposed to dry mixtures of animal slaughter by-products, seasonings and industrial additives.
And making broth at home is not at all difficult either. When buying whole chicken – raw or roasted – freeze the part of the carcass that nobody eats. Then cook for an hour, or a little longer, with vegetables.
Just the skin and tips of the onion, plus the dark green part of the leek, make a nice broth. If it has carrots and celery, the better.
Season with black pepper and bay leaf. Do not salt, as the broth is usually enough for several recipes, and you run the risk of spoiling one with too much salt.
When the potatoes are cooked, beat everything until smooth. Mixer is better than blender, you don’t even need to take the soup out of the pot.
Just before serving, add a cream cheese shablau, mix, wait for it to boil, turn off the heat and serve with croutons and chopped chives. Hot, warm, cold or iced, whichever way you prefer.
VICHYSSOISE
Performance: 6 servings
Difficulty: easy
Ingredients
300 g of potato
1 onion
2 leek stalks
50 g of butter
2 liters of chicken broth or water
3 bay leaves
250 ml of fresh cream
Salt and black pepper to taste
Chopped chives and croutons (or toast) to serve
Way of doing
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Coarsely chop the vegetables. Over high heat, melt the butter in a pan and sauté the onion, leek and potato, in that order.
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Pour broth or water. Cook with the bay leaf over medium heat, with the pan covered, until the potato is soft.
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Discard the bay leaf and whisk the soup until you get a smooth cream. If it gets too thick, add more water. If you are saving part of the soup, set it aside before adding the cream.
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Add the cream, mix and wait for it to boil. Turn off the pan and season with salt and pepper. Serve with chives and croutons.
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