See recipe for Virado à São Paulo for SP’s birthday – 01/22/2024 – Marcão’s Recipes
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São Paulo celebrates its birthday on the 25th and I, as a São Paulo native who loves to hate the city, feel obliged to pay homage to it in this column.
What would be typical São Paulo food?
There are malicious people saying that it simply doesn’t exist. These people don’t understand what metropolis culture is.
In big cities, cuisine is not born from rural traditions that have been passed down for generations. It arises from the mixture of people who find themselves in a new environment — an environment whose opportunities and limitations will also shape eating habits.
Metropolitan cuisine develops mainly from the front door to the street. So, São Paulo’s food is pastry, pizza, conical temaki, bauru, beirute.
And there is lunch at popular restaurants. In São Paulo, each day of the week has a fixed menu that applies to almost all of these bars: Saturday and Wednesday are feijoada days, Friday is fish day, Thursday has pasta dishes, Tuesday has pan-fried steak. .
Monday is the day of Virado à São Paulo, a dish that best represents the city’s cuisine.
Because it is a decidedly urban food, but one that preserves roots in São Paulo’s country origins. They say that Minas Gerais food arose from São Paulo food — that’s a discussion that’s not worth getting into.
In any case, the bean turner is very similar to the Minas Gerais tutu. Some argue that the two are synonymous.
I prefer another approach, in which the turnout is located, in terms of humidity, between the farofa and the pirão (the tutu being a bean pirão).
Virado is a drier tutu, in which the grains are not necessarily processed until they become puree. It’s a great use for beans from the previous day(s), with the seeds already somewhat broken.
You season the beans again and add the corn flour —my favorite for toppings— or cassava flour.
This is the bean turner. The São Paulo style is beans with a myriad of complements: rice, cabbage, fried egg, breaded banana, pork rinds, sausage and pork chop.
That’s why he lives almost exclusively in restaurants — there’s too much to cook. That’s also why I decided to simplify the service.
It makes it much easier to have beans and rice cooked the day before. You don’t need to make all the meats: one or two are enough. There is no need to fry the banana either. Beans with raw banana is life.
FACING PAULISTA
Performance: 4 servings
Difficulty: average
INGREDIENTS
100 g chopped bacon
1 chopped onion
500 g cooked and seasoned carioca beans
½ cup (tea) corn flour, approximately
Salt and green onion to taste
Side dishes
Acebolado sausage, rice, fried egg, sautéed cabbage, cracklings (optional) and silver banana
WAY OF DOING
1. Fry the bacon in its own fat. When it starts to brown, add the onion and sauté for 3 minutes.
2. Add the cooked beans and stir, leaving on heat until it boils.
3. Add the flour little by little, until you get a thick puree that sticks to the spoon. Adjust the salt and season with chives.
4. Serve with side dishes.
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