Restaurante 1835 rescues Rio Grande do Sul betrayal with a cosmopolitan touch

The wind blows cold on the edge of Vale do Quilombo, but not enough to make us hide and miss the amazing view. It’s tempting to stand on the balcony of Restaurante 1835 Carne e Brasa [a data é uma alusão ao ano da Revolução Farroupilha]look at the immensity and think that it was in this scenario that part of Riograndense culture was formed.

Located in Canela (RS), where the famous hotel Laje de Pedra was once located and where the Hotel Kempinski Laje de Pedra will soon be, the restaurant rescues the gaucho culture. A toast to the past, with the elegance and cosmopolitan flavor that the development where it is installed requires.

Curated by chef Carla Pernambuco, the menu brings several elements from the gaucho table. Thus, charcuterie, cheeses, pumpkin, polenta and, of course, meat, are on the menu. The way they arrive at the table, however, is what gives the touch of sophistication to the most refined house of the 20BARRA9 chain in Rio Grande do Sul. Born in Porto Alegre, Carla is known for having a kitchen that reveres national cuisine, without losing sight of the techniques and possibilities that make it more modern.

“I entered the menu to do this curation. But there were other chefs who worked here [no menu, também há criações dos chefs Felipe Di Sicca, Bruno Celente e Arika Messa]. I did this final tie and gave it a touch, joining the gaucho tradition with a little bit of a cosmopolitan air”, comments the chef.

And how does this concept translate to the table? Some dishes highlighted by Carla herself speak for themselves. Like Risoto de Copa, prepared with typical meats from Rio Grande do Sul, Aligot de Aipim and Croquetas de Abóbora, a different way of presenting two typical accompaniments of gaucho barbecues.

In desserts, more elements of the cuisine of Rio Grande do Sul gain different readings. The dulce de leche becomes an elegant creme brulet and the butiá, a typical fruit from the pampas region, goes into the cheesecake sauce – my mouth is watering just remembering the flavor and texture of the dessert.

But, as it could not be otherwise in a restaurant with gaucho references, fire and meat are the center of the experience. Installed in the middle of the hall and fully glazed, the kitchen of Restaurante 1835 has a grill in the central area from which the roasted cuts served in the house are constantly produced.

“The parrilla is there, in the center and in plain sight, for customers to feel around the fire, together with us”, explains chef Brenno Araújo, who has been in charge of the day-to-day operation of the restaurant since 2022. Meats prepared on site are selected by the 18BARRA9 team and come from producers in Rio Grande do Sul and Uruguay.

Restaurante 1835 will be part of the first Kempinksi hotel in South America

Restaurante 1835 will be one of the gastronomic operations of the future Hotel Kempinski Laje de Pedra. Under construction, the development will be the first of the famous German luxury hotel chain in South America. Based on the tripod of art, culture and gastronomy, Kempinski Laje de Pedra has in its project several elements of appreciation of gaucho traditions.

In this way, elements from Rio Grande do Sul are inserted in several points of the project. For example, art objects that will be part of the apartments are signed by the artists Heloísa Crocco and Inês Schertel. In addition, all the paintings and photo compositions that will be in the hotel are the result of a photographic expedition sponsored by the Instituto Cultural Laje de Pedra, which portrayed the landscapes of Rio Grande do Sul.

In a total area of ​​61,000 m², the hotel will have 357 apartments, 4 restaurants and 5 bars. It is also planned to build a swimming pool overlooking the Quilombo Valley and a theater for events on site. The forecast is that in 2024 the Hotel Kempinski Laje de Pedra will be open to receive the first guests.

*The reporter traveled at the invitation of Kempinski Laje de Pedra.