Ottolenghi’s book brings tips to boost the flavor of dishes – 04/23/2023 – Marcelo Katsuki
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On this World Book Day, let’s talk about chef Yotam Ottolenghi’s latest release. “Sabor” follows the premises of the chef’s previous books, such as “Comida de Verdade” and “Jerusalém”, with recipes that creatively combine vegetables, seeking to extract the maximum flavor from each ingredient. But here we have a book with a ‘flexitarian’ approach, which seeks to reduce the consumption of animal products, but not completely. The co-author is chef Ixta Belfrage, who grew up in Mexico, the United Kingdom and Brazil.
The book begins by listing the “20 flavor ingredients” and there are anchovies, which “give a depth of flavor to recipes” and fish sauce, a condiment based on fermented fish that “has an unusual aroma”, which chef says love it. This is a quick but very interesting chapter, as there are real wildcards for us to enhance the flavor of the dishes, such as black garlic, miso and Korean gochujang pepper paste. If I could present an ingredient for Ottolenghi, it would be the chili pepper, which since I’ve known it, I’ve used it in the preparation of everything: from fish and meat to rice, lol. Ah, this theme returns at the end of the book, with the ‘Flavor bombs’, where the ingredients give way to preparations, such as sauces, marinades, pickles, salts, oils and other items to assemble in the pantry a small arsenal that will blow up your recipes.
After all, “Sabor” is a recipe book, and they are there, divided into three chapters: technique, combination and ingredient, which open with a very clear and didactic theoretical presentation.
The first chapter presents ways to extract the maximum flavor from each vegetable through four processes: roasting, browning, infusing and maturing. And for those who like eggplant, there are recipes with the vegetable smoked, charred and steamed.
• See the eggplant cheesecake recipe from the book “Comida de Verdade”.
The chapter on combination shows the importance of the interaction between sweetness, fat, acidity and spiciness with recipes such as the pumpkin, orange and sage galette and the practical orecchiette à puttanesca in one pot.
There are four groups of ingredients in the last chapter: mushrooms, alliums (onions, shallots and leeks), nuts and sugar (from fruits and beverages). Chosen for their depth of flavor or texture contrast, they bring in the fifth taste, umami, their great asset. Recipes range from an olive oil flatbread with three garlic butter to a showy tangerine pudding with ancho pepper – and which uses condensed milk.
The book closes with a list of suggestions for menus for everyday use and for banquets, designed with the dishes presented in the book and with an indication of the respective pages. And a beautiful sequence of photos taken by Jonathan Lovekin, author of the photos in the book.
• Read the interview given by Ottolenghi to Folha.
Flavor
Original title: Flavor
Author: Yotam Ottolenghi, Ixta Belfrage and Tara Wigley
Seal: Companhia de Mesa
Average price: BRL 155
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