Muli offers a heterogeneous menu with great seafood – 01/18/2024 – Restaurants

The slogan of the new restaurant in the neighborhood says that it was “dragged” from the sea to Santa Cecília. It would take a great capacity for abstraction to associate the large and noisy warehouse on a busy street in the central region of São Paulo with any feeling of being on the beach. But the idea of ​​a tsunami of gastronomic references, with waves coming from all directions leading to one place, might even make sense given what you see on Muli’s varied menu.

Without a foot planted in any specific sand, the house frees itself from the constraints of regional culinary traditions and breaks away from rules, exploring different approaches with a focus on seafood. This is how the menu offers dishes that mix varied influences. There is, among others, tuna tiradito (Peruvian-inspired), seafood with fries (Belgian), oriental rolls, and grilled tuna burger (American).

To start, there is a portion of oysters (R$33 for a trio and R$66 for a half dozen). The golden squid (R$52) comes breaded and served with sauce and sour cream with chilli. It arrives at the table dry and crispy, with soft meat and excellent seasoning with a spicy touch.

The presence of a shell in the restaurant’s logo and the offer of four dish options with bivalve molluscs indicate that this is the restaurant’s flagship. The frequent flames raised by the team in the kitchen open to the dining room and the bowls full of seafood confirm the feeling.

The menu offers more traditional preparations for those who know European versions of mussels (a term that is not used on the menu, but which the dictionary allows us to use as a synonym). There are seafood with cream (R$65), with tomato and basil (R$55) and with squid and prawns (R$88).

In this mix of references, it is an Indian-inspired version that catches the most attention. The madras (R$65) features seafood in a fresh coconut milk broth with curry and coriander, as well as mushrooms.
The mussels are large and juicy and the sauce is very fragrant, but creamy and smooth, without being overly spicy. Tender and very tasty mushrooms in the sauce compete for focus with the seafood and the combination works very well.

To top it off, the house fries are crispy, but manage to absorb the thick broth of the dish well. To top it off, there are only three desserts. But it is the bags that best help complete the package. The offering may vary depending on the day, but the paçoca with bourbon whiskey is so good that it deserves its own mention.

The restaurant opened in November and has attentive service, but it still gets in the way — nothing that won’t be overcome with time. With such a heterogeneous and interesting menu, Muli has everything it needs to establish itself as a reference in São Paulo. Too bad it only opens at night and only serves lunch on weekends.