Brands highlight the Northeast in fashion shows at SPFW – 04/15/2024 – Equilíbrio

Brazilian fashion has been the scene of a creative effervescence, in which designers from different regions of the country have found space to express their cultural identities and personal stories. In this 57th edition of São Paulo Fashion Week, brands Catarina Mina and Marina Bitu highlighted women’s manual work from Ceará, designer Walério Araújo paid tribute to his mother, who is from Pernambuco, just like him, and Dendezeiro stood out, again , with its Bahian DNA.

The recovery of traditions, a look at everyday life and the appreciation of cultural roots are essential elements that permeate the collections, reinforcing the importance of the Northeast as an inexhaustible source of inspiration and creativity in contemporary Brazilian fashion.

Ceará brand Catarina Mina debuted at São Paulo Fashion Week with a collection that pays homage to artisans and their tradition of manual work. Composed of handmade pieces using six different artisanal techniques, the collection highlights the beauty of lace and the role of artisans as guardians of a valuable cultural tradition. The female predominance valuing the Ceará region is evident.

“I’m very happy to be pushing this movement along with so many incredible women looking at women’s place”, says designer Celina Hissa. She also highlights the importance of handicrafts in generating income for women, supporting families and valuing domestic work.

The brand, which has been promoting actions to value and preserve crafts for around 18 years, has a network of 450 artisans. The line represents the authenticity of the Northeast, as does Marina Bitu, who was also born in Ceará.

“When we position ourselves as a Northeastern brand on a national level, we are also saying to Brazil that there are other hubs other than just the Southeast that we have to look at. And that make fashion, not just make clothes”, says Marina Bitu.

Marina Bitu is led by two women and seeks to introduce her northeastern cultural references into a cosmopolitan setting, highlighting diversity and cultural richness. In recent years, the brand’s visibility has grown, and Bitu states that the current moment in fashion has attracted more attention in Brazilian regions outside the Southeast.

“Northeastern creators in recent years have done very important work, especially in maintaining our traditional knowledge, our manual skills. And I think this has been a very interesting and very important movement. I think it is indeed a divider of water in the history of our Brazilian fashion”, he adds.

In the current collection, inspired by Cariri, the main references are the geology of Chapada do Araripe —located between Ceará, Pernambuco and Piauí— and local cultural manifestations, also with a focus on women as creators and maintainers of artisanal traditions.

Walério Araújo, who has been on the road for more years than the brands above, has a different perspective on the Northeast. Born in Pernambuco, the designer seeks to show his roots in a bold and creative way in his clothes. Vivid colors, exuberant prints and creative textures often mark his creations. This season, Araújo paid tribute to his mother, Dona Maria do Carmo, known as Dona Neném, who turns 95 this year.

“My mother and I have a very close relationship. Being the youngest, I was always treated like the eternal baby, and she always affectionately calls me ‘my boy’. When I get home, I often hear her asking: ‘Where’s my boy?’. My sister is the one who takes care of her, but our connection is unique”, explains the designer

The designer explores a variety of manual techniques and materials, from stones and lace to prints inspired by regional elements. The references range from gastronomy, religion and regional culture of the Northeast, in a unique mix of colors, prints and materials.

“I’m turning 54”, says Walério Araújo, who had his birthday on the day of the parade, April 12th. “I decided to honor my mother, who is turning 95 years old. I wanted to convey all my love and gratitude for her with this parade.”

Silhouettes inspired by the 1980s and eternalized gold accessories are also part of the narrative, referring to important moments in the lives of the designer and his mother. With a palette of soft colors, such as pink, white and nude, there is contrast with vibrant prints and French lace details.

Among the pieces in the collection, northeastern elements are translated into looks that represent couscous and eggs, tailoring with foliage, synthesized details of a rural life and affectionate memories incorporated in portraits with stones tell a story of almost 100 years.

Hisan Silva and Pedro Batalha, creators of the Dendezeiro brand, give all their focus to Bahia, which has been part of the brand’s identity since it was born in 2019. While the industry has rescued northeastern regionalism, with work, Silva and Batalha have never They failed to show this importance, just like Walério Araújo.

“The Northeast is a constant reference for us, as Dendezeiro’s base is there. Every day I’m in Salvador, every day I’m in the Northeast”, says Hisan Silva. “This is a very important point at Dendezeiro, we love this mix of tailoring with street style. We are always on the streets observing people and how they behave. And as Salvador is our square, we are always paying attention to how people behave there “, he adds.

Line presented at SPFW, the designers sought to balance feelings of fear and freedom in their creations, reflecting the complexity of the human experience. The pieces map different personalities and emotions, representing the coexistence of these universes within each individual.

Hissan Silva reflects on the wave of praise for northeastern brands at major fashion events in other regions of Brazil. “What does appreciation mean? I think there’s a lot about getting brands to show their work, but how do they survive? I think this has always revolved around the Northeast.”

He notes that the phenomenon of Northeastern brands dominating the scene is not new, remembering the impact of previous generations, such as the case of Bahian designer Isaac Silva moving to São Paulo. “How can we ensure that appreciation doesn’t just happen in São Paulo?”, says Hissan Silva, adding that there is a need for a national fashion structure that really empowers people beyond the São Paulo bubble.

Silva highlights that when you are in the Northeast, there is a constant need to consider different tools and approaches to face these challenges. The duo incorporates their cultural influence into all of their collections and provides a stage for regional artists as well. This season, they once again collaborate with the tapestry of Bahian artist Renan Estivan, using prints in different ways.

The duo states that last season, there was a significant increase in northeastern designers, especially from Bahia, who are managing to sign their own pieces. The region has always been recognized as a place of creativity, however, there was consumption and replication of its creations without the name of Bahia being associated.

Andreza Oliveira and Vitória Macedo collaborated.

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