Tourism on the Croa River, in Acre: spirituality and ecology – 05/09/2023 – Tourism

On the banks of the Croa River, 635 km from Rio Branco, the capital of Acre, a short, black-haired woman dressed in a brown tunic welcomes a group of 100 people who have just got off their boats. “Welcome. My name is Cíntia Flores”, she says, offering a hug to everyone who arrives on dry land.

The 48-year-old Peruvian has lived in the riverside region of Cruzeiro do Sul, the second largest municipality in the state, for 15 years. In Brazil there are more than 30, since she fled the abuse she suffered from her stepfather in her home country.

Today, Cíntia owns an inn and is a spiritual guide for people in the Amazon region. Together with the local community, it has developed ecological tourism in the vicinity of the Croa River, with a focus on valuing culture and environmental preservation.

The path to the corner is taken by boat, after traveling 22 kilometers overland on the BR-364, leaving the center of Cruzeiro do Sul.

The growth of tourism in the region, the main source of income for the approximately 80 families that live in the riverside community, aroused the interest of the state, which has been investing in infrastructure.

For this reason, the path that leads to Croa is paved, and, since the end of last year, there has been wifi in the region — which does not mean continuous connection, since signal drops in the municipality are routine.

Arriving at the bank, it is possible to pay for the water trip or even take a boat trip along the river. Each visitor pays, on average, R$ 15 for the trip on the boats, guided by residents of the riverside community. There are also packages offered by the inns, with the service included.

In addition to the spring waters, covered with small flowers and water lilies in some seasons of the year, there are centenary trees in the region.

Considered the queen of the forest, the samaúma, also called kapok, has monumental roots and a canopy up to 70 meters high. The tree absorbs water from the depths of the Amazonian soil and hydrates the plants around it. In some periods, it disperses moisture in the air, irrigating the atmosphere.

This generosity is part of the sacred, says Cíntia. It is to the samaúmas that she tells her secrets and, at their feet, she enshrines the medicine she uses in her spiritual work.

Works that involve taking ayahuasca, a drink used in religious rituals such as the Santo Daime. “Consecrating medicine is being open to receiving what tea has to bring you: good things, vibrations, visions and teachings”, says Jonatan Fernandes de Souza, 32, son of Cíntia and one of those responsible for the inn.

Before leading through the forest, the group that Sheet accompanied, Cíntia even asked one of the trees if it would like to receive the group, but had a negative answer. For this reason, a trail that was supposed to last five minutes ended up being replaced by another, lasting 15 minutes, where a samaúma tree was planted willing to receive guests.

Among the roots of samaúma, the spiritual guide told how she left Peru at a young age and arrived in Brazil. It was her sister Janaina, who she calls her spirit of light and with whom she says she communicates through ayahuasca, who took her to the riverbanks, where she built a guesthouse and restaurant, named after the latter.

There, Cíntia also conducts rituals with the sacred drink, which allows her a spiritual connection with nature, and with snuff, a mixture of herbs such as tobacco and tree bark that is blown into the nose. Medicinal treatment, as it is called, attracts Brazilians and gringos who seek their own spiritual awakening or a cure for illnesses.

Tourism is one of the main sources of income for the community, which derives its daily food from the land and river. With the growth in visits to the site, there are now around six restaurants on the banks of the Croa, offering trails through the woods, walks along the dark waters of the river and local meals.

The buildings are rustic and are usually made from a mixture of wood and straw, a combination that provides thermal insulation from heat, which can reach 40°C. There are hammocks scattered everywhere, and small open huts with wooden tables and benches.

The cuisine is full of dishes with tambaqui, surubim and piau fish, caught in the Juruá river or purchased from breeders. Fishing in Croa is only allowed for personal consumption, with the removal of large quantities prohibited for environmental preservation. Fruits such as açaí and banana are purchased from the neighborhood, which produces them.

There are options for fish baked in banana straw, a typical dish of the region, fried ribs, stew, moqueca, bait and fillet. For those who don’t give up red meat, the inn offers barbecue and fillet on the plate, in addition to free-range chicken. There are also vegetarian and vegan options.

Dishes come with rice, pasta, beans, farofa, mush, and a choice of banana, potato or fried cassava. Influenced by Cíntia’s Peruvian roots and the local culture, the food has a homemade feel, and brings the aroma of wood burned in preparation. On the table, there is no shortage of açaí, cupuaçu and soursop juices, easily accessible in the region.

How to prepare for the trip to the Croa River region

It is worth redoubling care with vaccines and sunscreen, in addition to ensuring hydration during the day. And remember: running into a snake may not happen, but mosquitoes will certainly be there.

vaccines

It is recommended to take the yellow fever vaccine up to 10 days before the trip, if you have never taken it. It is also worth confirming immunization against hepatitis A and B, updating the tetanus vaccine and checking whether the vaccination cycle against Covid is complete.

Repellent

It is indispensable. Pure citronella and andiroba oils are recommended. The three-phase versions of cosmetic brands are more efficient than pharmacy repellents (from the reporter’s experience).

Sunscreen

Essential for the northern sun. Applying it first thing in the morning and all over the body will not compromise the tan in any way, but it can prevent sunstroke and skin burns.

Light clothes

It doesn’t matter if you’re not the person in the top—you’ll want to wear a crop top. Pieces with fine fabrics are welcome, and the less cloth, the better. Carrying more than one shower option can be useful, as you’ll even want to use it out of the water.

Good news: bathing in the river is very good, and you don’t even need a towel (you’ll dry in minutes). Tennis is only useful if you are going to do long trails. Otherwise, the slipper is enough.

Bottle of water

It is worth investing in thermoses, which keep the water temperature, and with a handle, to carry throughout the day. In addition to refreshing, they maintain hydration.

extra tip

If you’re going to sleep in the hut, it’s worth taking a blanket. It can be windy at night, and if there are a lot of mosquitoes, a blanket can help.

---

Inn and Restaurant Canto Encanto Janaina

The packages to spend the day include a return trip by boat between the port and the inn, lunch, a trail, a trip along the Croa River, access to huts with hammocks, a visit to the samaúma forest, access to a natural pool and Wi-Fi. They cost from BRL 140 per person, and BRL 180 per couple.

There are also options to visit the Katukinas and Puyanawa villages, with an overnight stay at the inn for 7 days, including breakfast, lunch and dinner, transfer and consecration of ayahuasca medicine. From BRL 3,500. Children up to 8 years old do not pay.

Where to find out more: @pousadajanaina_croa on Instagram
Phone: (68) 99912-3364