Meat tasting highlights differences between beef breeds – 10/21/2023 – Food
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Osso São Paulo’s special menu shows that each breed of beef has its own flavor complexities. Organized in a private room at Itaim Bibi, the gastronomic experience pairs meats, fresh or dry-aged, with drinks.
The service begins with naturally fermented bread and butter, complemented with pork and beef sausages made there.
To whet your appetite, the house offers a drink marked by the smoothness of the rum blend with noisette butter, which also incorporates plantain reduction, lemon and clarified milk.
Then come the meats, the restaurant’s flagship: Nelore, 75% Angus, Curraleiro Pé-Duro, 100% Angus, 70% Angus, 30% Wagyu and 100% Wagyu.
The percentage in front of the name explains the animal’s genetics. In case of 70% angus 30% wagyu, for example, the ox received greater genetic inheritance from the first breed, but also presents characteristics from the second.
Osso usually buys whole cattle, still in the pastures, to make the best use of the animal.
According to Guilherme Mora, restauranteur who curated the tasting, the menu was designed to tell the customer what to look for in the meats.
“The order corresponds to the strength of the flavor of each one, from the simplest to the most complex”, says Mora. Even if the breeds change —depending on restaurant availability—, the concept of the meal is fixed.
Seasoned only with salt, the tasting meats are roasted over coals and served medium rare with drinks — a cocktail for each breed.
Simple dishes also accompany the cuts that do not overshadow the differentiation in the flavors of the beef, such as peach palm, farofa, mushrooms, marrow rice or French fries.
Popular and lean, Nelore meat is the first to arrive. It is succeeded by 75% angus, the type most sold by the house, which is characterized by greater softness and quality. The Curraleiro Pé-Duro, a Brazilian ox, seals the fresh meats with an unctuous flavor and a texture that doesn’t fall apart.
The meat in the second half is dry aged. The 100% angus opens the dry aged section with the incorporation of softness and flavor, but less buttery than its successor with Japanese genetics, the 70% angus 30% wagyu.
But the pinnacle of the service is really the 100% wagyu, which exhibits a complex mix of fat and softness.
After the meats, Osso offers three desserts: milk pudding, chocolate cake and ice cream; the last two, with bacon. A pleasant surprise.
The “Raças” tasting takes place every month in a room that seats 12 people, located between the kitchen and the maturation chamber at Osso São Paulo. It is available by reservation via WhatsApp (11) 3167-3816. The customer can choose the details of the tasting, with wine or cocktail pairing options.
–> Rua Bandeira Paulista, 520 – Itaim Bibi. From Mon. to Friday, from 12:30 pm to 3:30 pm and from 7:30 pm to 11 pm. Sat., from 12pm to midnight and Sun., from 12pm to 6pm @ossosaopaulo
Picanha with açaí syrup and hearts of palm
For those who are not so conservative when preparing this cut, chef Carlos Valentí’s recipe is an option to vary the picanha. The process takes 1 hour and serves four portions.
Ingredients:
-800g picanha
-200g açaí pulp
-200ml meat broth
-50ml pequi oil
-50g peach palm hearts
-200ml tucupi
– Salt to taste
How to make:
-First, cook the açaí pulp with the meat broth, over low heat, until reduced.
-In a pan with water and salt, cook the hearts of palm for 30 minutes. You can also use a vacuum cooking bag, with pequi oil and salt, for 45 minutes, at 80 degrees.
-Then, place the heart of palm on the grill to mark it. Finish with pequi oil and set aside.
-Boil the tucupi seasoned with salt, garlic, pepper and olive oil. Let the broth reduce and thicken and then set aside.
-Now bake the picanha on a grill, parrilla or griddle.
-Then, serve the tucupi reduction on a plate and place the sliced picanha on it (if you want, swap the reduction for cassava puree).
-Finally, pour in the açaí syrup to finish with salt and rosemary.
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