Lasagna with rice and other delicacies from Brazilian cuisine – 06/02/2023 – Cozinha Bruta
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I typed “lasagna” and “rice” into the iFood search field and was surprised: dozens of restaurants within a 7-kilometer radius of my house offer the combination. Sometimes with rice and fries, sometimes with beans too.
Shortly before, I had replicated a Twitter post by a woman who criticized the degenerate – and, according to her, São Paulo – custom of eating lasagna with rice.
I love these internet brawls where the rest of Brazil gets together to mock the eating habits of a specific region, especially São Paulo.
Give him a dick on couscous from São Paulo and on the hot dog with mashed potatoes. Take northeastern saying that the right thing is to call hominy mugunzá (and curau hominy). The São Paulo counteroffensive fires pizza shells with ketchup, and life goes on smoothly.
The lasagna post is in another department. Its repercussions made me realize that this is not a regional raid. The hole is deeper and deserves serious reflection, despite the ridiculousness of seriously reflecting on lasagna with rice.
The author of the tweet was criticized by people from Minas Gerais, Ceará, and all over Brazil. She was beaten so much that she deleted her profile on the platform.
In a context that demands binary answers for everything, lasagna with rice divides the population into two groups that despise each other.
One of the ends is occupied by the brotherhood of the enlightened. She has the word “gastronomy” in her repertoire. It reveres food traditions, rites and dictates. Eat durum wheat carbonara with guanciale and pecorino.
On the opposite side, the crowd who don’t even care if the Italian climbs on their clogs when you mix rice with lasagna or break spaghetti in half.
It’s the people who eat sushi with feijoada by the kilo for lunch. Who buys marmitex in the back of the van. Who sends the dog complete with 600 ml soda. The bulk of Brazilians, anyway.
The blessed of gastronomy circulate in a tiny space where Brazilian cuisine is made from Amazonian ants, taioba, creole corn, artisanal cheese, cauim, tiquira and organic rice from the MST.
It is the romanticized image of a nation that feeds on chicken nuggets, canned peas, sausage, bakery snacks, pancakes with rice, gnocchi with rice, lasagna with rice, anything with rice. Ordinary rice, without brand or certification.
Rice is the sustenance, the base that you adorn with more noble elements, such as steak parmigiana, stroganoff or lasagna. The proverbial mason’s plate always has a mountain of rice.
Only the privileged can conceive of a gastronomy in which the carbohydrate, less expensive, is a mere supporting element. It goes for the whole world, but Brazil has a particularly acute case of social discrepancy.
I’m not saying that Alex Atala should serve a bowl of rice for every dish on the DOM tasting menu
Only that the enlightened eaters of this country deliberately ignore what goes on in the “bar and snacks”, in the padoca, in the pub of painters and plumbers. With such a detachment from reality, there is no gastronomy that takes off as an export product.
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