How to use retinol, the “gold standard” against aging – 04/22/2023 – Equilibrium

Retinol is known as one of the most efficient actives in anti-aging treatments for the skin, and has gained space among the darling products of the skin care universe.

Fame is not for nothing. Experts consider the active as the “gold standard” in skin care when it comes to preventing and reversing the signs of aging. This is because it is the most tested through studies considered the gold standard, that is, double-blind, controlled and randomized, according to a review of studies published in 2022.

Retinol is one of the vitamin A derivatives, commonly called retinoids. In this group are retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid, for example. All have the same active principle and are used in cosmetics, with small differences in presentation.

What is this asset used for?

Retinoids act directly on cell processes, promoting cell renewal and modulating protein synthesis. Consequently, they improve the signs of aging, the texture and the oiliness of the skin.

“Our cells have receptors for retinoids, so they can act directly on the DNA”, says dermatologist Karina Calbucci, a specialist in cosmiatry and a member of the SBD (Brazilian Society of Dermatology). Thus, these actives are used for the improvement of stains and wrinkles, and also in the treatment of acne.

Calbucci points out that the drug Roaccutane (trade name for isotretinoin), used in severe cases of acne, is also a type of retinol. “This is a substance that is also used in other organs of the body, and its use goes beyond topical use.”

What is the best product for me and how to use it?

Retinoids are available on the market in a variety of formulations and can suit many skin types.

The first variation is in the type of compound present in the product. Retinoic acid, for example, is the active form of retinoids, and the one with the most proven effectiveness, according to a study. This is the formulation that is effectively absorbed by the body and acts directly on the body.

Compositions with the active ingredient are the most potent, but they are also the ones most likely to cause skin irritation. “The more distant from this active form the derivative is, the less irritating”, points out Calbucci.

Retinol or retinaldehyde are less aggressive on the skin. As retinoic acid is an asset with a high irritating potential, other compounds may be friendlier to start the treatment.

In addition, there is also a variety in the concentration of retinoids present in the formula. Calbucci considers that many brands do not disclose the percentage added to the product, so it is not always possible to distinguish by the label.

The ideal, according to experts, is to start with a lower concentration and increase as the skin develops greater tolerance to the acid.

Retinoic acid can also be used in the office to perform peeling. In this case, the concentration can be up to 10%, because it is a controlled procedure and performed under medical supervision, as indicated by Calbucci.

Products for home use can also have a combined composition, that is, mix other actives in the formulation. Adding moisturizing substances, for example, can enhance the action of substances without increasing the risk of irritation.

“We can also use the sandwich technique, which consists of using a moisturizer before and after the retinoid, at the time of application”, suggests the dermatologist.

Another technique suggested by specialists to improve skin tolerance at the beginning of treatment is to intersperse this active with other products. Thus, the product will only be applied two or three times a week.

Who can use retinoids?

There is no age restriction after childhood. Doctor Fernanda Porphirio, a dermatologist at Clínica Vanité and a specialist in dermatology and aesthetics at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, says that its use is recommended, normally, from the age of 30.

However, thinking about aging prevention, it can also be used by younger people. In general, it should not cause harm, but there is a sensitivity concern. “Younger people tend to have more sensitive skin,” says Porphirio.

The compounds can also be used for the treatment of teenage acne. But, according to Porphirio, the priority in these cases is for weaker actives, and retinoic acid is used when there is a manifestation of intense acne.

What precautions should I take?

One of the concerns when using products with retinoids is photoprotection. The active can have undesirable effects when exposed to the sun and, therefore, it is essential that it is applied at night and removed in the morning, before applying sunscreen.

“When the patient will have greater exposure to the sun, at the beach or on vacation, for example, we recommend that use be suspended a few days before”, indicates Porphirio.

Furthermore, the active is not indicated for people who have very sensitive skin or pathologies such as rosacea. “That’s why it’s always better to follow up with a specialist, to identify these issues.”

After starting use, it is important to be aware of signs of irritation, such as redness, burning or flaking. In such cases, it may be necessary to discontinue use or modify the product and strength.

Another case of contraindication is for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding. In the use of Roaccutane, for example, there are risks of malformation of the fetus or miscarriage. As for the topical use of retinoids, experts indicate that there is still no proof of direct damage, but it is also not recommended.