Centella asiatica: learn about the benefits of the plant on the skin – 04/24/2023 – Equilíbrio

From oriental medicine to mainstream cosmetics, centella asiatica has become one of the favorite plants in the beauty market. The brands Sallve, Oceáne and O Boticário, for example, already have creams or masks that take components of the plant. They are also common in Korean cosmetics. They can be found in creams, capsules, teas and formulas used to enhance anti-cellulite procedures in beauty clinics. But which benefits are really proven when it comes to skincare?

Scientists have been dedicated to this question for decades and the most significant effects found so far come from two components of the plant: madecassoside and asiaticoside (the latter makes up around 40% of the plant). According to a review published in 2012 by the International Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences, asiaticoside has the potential to induce the synthesis of type I collagen, which, among other functions, helps to firm the skin.

Another analysis of articles, published in February of this year, in the Revista de Medicina Celular e Molecular, points out that the topical use of the active principle can improve skin hyperpigmentation, photoaging and the appearance of cellulite, stretch marks and wrinkles around the eyes. The study also mentions benefits for the control of atopic dermatitis due to the anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory properties of the component.

Madecassoside, in turn, proved to be efficient against acne inflammation, by inhibiting the production of cytokines common to this condition. In addition, it was able to increase skin hydration, both in tests in vitro and in vivo.

Another benefit identified in the plant is its antioxidant potential, adds biologist Ana Carolina Roque Cardoso, master in plant production from Unesp (São Paulo State University). Phenolic acids, which protect the centella from insects, fungi and other external factors, can bring benefits to humans, helping to fight free radicals.

The not so good news is that most of these studies are still small in sampling, says dermatologist Anna Karoline Spagnol de Moura Tomazini, from Hospital São Marcelino Champagnat, in Curitiba. The specialist reports that she sees good results with centella in practice, especially in the treatment of cellulite. “Only using it, it is possible to see an improvement of up to 30% in one year”, says the doctor.

Even so, Anna recalls that more research needs to be carried out to explain the functioning and effects of the herbal medicine. A study published in the Evidence-Based Journal of Complementary and Alternative Medicine also mentions the demand for extensive clinical studies, especially to verify the healing mechanism in individuals with severe wounds, acne, burns and atopic dermatitis.

Another point mentioned by the dermatologist concerns the mode of use: topical use is the most efficient, although no product applied to the skin, such as creams and ointments, yields improvements greater than 30% of the condition. “Ideally, the item should be combined with other assets or procedures”, she says.

In addition, the doctor warns that care must be taken with teas, due to the toxicity that the plant presents if used in concentrated portions. Also for this reason, Anna does not recommend its use for pregnant women, nursing mothers, patients with kidney or liver failure or who are treating gastritis. “A lot of people think that because something is natural, it’s always safe, but you have to be careful.”

Dermatologist José Roberto Fraga Filho, from the SBD (Brazilian Society of Dermatology), adds that excessive doses can lead to drowsiness, hypotension and sedation, in addition to causing skin irritation. “The difference between medicine and poison is the dose used. It is essential to remember that”, he points out.