Cafeteria at the top of the clock tower has incredible views – 12/19/2023 – Café na Prensa

The wind in lower São Francisco is imposing. The force that pushed tent canoes in the 19th century today calms the heat of tourists and residents who go to the shore in search of leisure, contemplation or, why not, a coffee.

It is in a century-old clock tower in the northeastern hinterland that one of the cafes with the most impressive location in Brazil is hidden.

Built in 1879, the tower is in front of the old Piranhas train station (270 km from Maceió) and used to regulate not only train arrival and departure times, but life in the city. Businesses, churches, schools… all depended on the time indicated on the municipal clock.

In addition to having a living, inhabited and well-preserved historic center, Piranhas is the base for those who want to explore the canyons of the São Francisco River, one of the most stunning geographic formations in Brazil.

Today, the clock, still in operation, houses Nalva Café, also known as Café da Torre. To get to the place, you have to climb a spiral staircase.

At the top, the wind that runs through the windows makes you forget that you are in the backlands and creates a pleasant microclimate in which to spend an evening.

As it is a historic building, it does not support much weight. Therefore, only 15 people are allowed at the top of the tower at the same time. At the foot of the stairs, there are some tables for those who want to have a coffee while waiting for their turn to go up.

At the top of the tower, each of the wooden windows frames a picturesque scene of the city. Ahead, the São Francisco River flows majestically behind the old train station. It’s late afternoon and the small boats are already resting on the beach. The coming and going at this time is just that of the water.

The windows to the left of the counter reveal the colorful houses of the historic center of the city known as Lapinha do Sertão. Further away, at the top, is the secular viewpoint — as it has a sculpture in “tribute from the people of the 19th century to the people of the 20th century”, but also, in a certain way, secular in a secular way, as it is opposite the viewpoint of the church of the Our Lord of Bonfim.

But it is through the window on the right that the most impressive landscape of this late afternoon is visible. Behind a leafy almond tree, there is a hill — full of dry caatinga vegetation — where the city’s other viewpoint is located, the confessional, from the Bonfim church.

Behind the hill, the sun, which a few moments ago was showing its reflection in the waters of the São Francisco, begins to hide. This late afternoon lighting projects a sky of orange colors that turn pink as the hands above our heads move forward.

At the table, the setting is well furnished. O Coffee in the Press He tried some of the delicacies at the establishment’s invitation. The coffee, freshly ground, is not gourmet and has the not exaggerated intensity typical of the region. Manufactured by Santa Clara, one of the strongest brands in the northeastern market, it is served in espresso and filtered versions, and also makes up drinks such as the one that contains steamed milk, a scoop of cream ice cream, homemade dulce de leche and farofa. crunchy peanuts — a beautiful reinterpretation of the classic affogato (R$ 15).

The food also lives up to the location. Created by chef Antônio Mendes Jr., responsible for three other ventures in the city, including Nalva, the most sophisticated restaurant in the area, they range from well-seasoned chicken quiche (R$ 12) to shrimp pie with a tasty and moist filling ( R$ 19).

To finish, a popular sweet from Alagoas: the condensed milk tortelette (R$8), with a thin crust and generously filled.

The pasta, in fact, is so light that the pieces that fall onto the plate are sometimes carried away by the wind, this indelible companion of the cafeteria.

For those looking for more robust foods and well-executed Northeastern classics, Café da Estação, owned by the same chef, is just a few steps away and serves items such as tapioca stuffed with plenty of sun-dried meat in cream and even couscous and executive dishes.

Meanwhile, from the top of the tower, dusk highlights the silhouette of the little Bonfim church in the heights, with lights starting to come on, showing the path of 256 steps that lead up to it.

And so you can admire the sunset from the clock tower. Between the divine and the secular viewpoint, bordered by Saint Francis and his strength that defies God and the Devil. And on the table rests the coffee. A drink once classified as a product of the devil, it was banned in Europe in the 16th century, but later enchanted even the Pope.

Darkness arrives at 6pm, and the clock starts to tick — it is, after all, still active. Hail Mary time, or time to start enjoying the worldly pleasures of Saturday night.

I make the sign of the cross and head to the cachaçaria on the street below.

And the São Francisco River continues to blow its bestial wind throughout the countryside.



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