Why your clothes could be intoxicating you – 12/07/2023 – Fundamental Science

When, in 2011, Alaska Airlines flight attendants received water- and stain-resistant uniforms, they had no idea that a years-long journey to prove that those clothes were toxic had begun. As soon as the new uniforms arrived, cases of allergies began to be reported, and the list grew with complaints of respiratory problems, migraines, fatigue and even the appearance of autoimmune diseases. When complaints totaled about 800 cases, commissioners filed a class action lawsuit against the clothing manufacturer.

The lack of scientific evidence regarding tissue toxicity has hurt the cause. The employees lost but did not surrender: they soon ordered a laboratory analysis, and it detected the presence of chemicals that irritate the skin and respiratory system — heavy metals such as lead, cobalt and chromium, in addition to a dye banned in the European Union due to its potential carcinogen, and other compounds that can act as hormones, altering physiological functions.

A group of Harvard scientists conducting research on flight attendants followed the case of Alaska Airlines employees from 2007 to 2015, and proved that the introduction of new uniforms was linked to an increase in health complaints. Even after the publication of the scientific article, in 2018 complaints arose regarding other airlines that adopted polyester clothing with greater resistance to stains and flames. Changes in health due to toxic products present in clothing are not uncommon, although in most cases it is very difficult to credit clothing as the true cause of the problem.

The textile industry uses several substances that can have adverse effects on health, such as heavy metals, pesticides, dyes, microplastics, flame retardants and waterproofing. Fabrics do not come with lists of components, and we have no way of knowing what contaminants we are exposed to. Clothes are in contact with the skin all the time, but we don’t know how much we absorb of these harmful substances, nor whether the absorbed concentration could cause acute or chronic effects on our health. Research in this area has grown in recent years, but most of it focuses on detecting and quantifying chemicals in clothing items. One of the difficulties is precisely carrying out the analyses, as there are thousands of components that can cause toxicity. There are more than 10,000 types of synthetic dyes on the market alone, and studies conducted on animals or human cells have shown that some of them can cause damage to DNA and changes in metabolism and sexual hormones.

Analyzes carried out on samples of school uniforms from the United States and Canada detected the presence of PFAS in all of them, chemical compounds with linear chains containing many fluorine atoms. Recent studies point to several toxic effects resulting from PFAS, including changes in neurodevelopment, behavior and childhood immunity.

Even panty liners sold as “organic, safe, healthy and sustainable” haven’t fared well under this chemical scrutiny. Professor Graham Peaslee’s group, from the University of Notre Dame, in the United States, found high levels of PFAS in feminine hygiene items from the Thinx brand. After a controversy at the beginning of 2023, the manufacturer began offering financial compensation to consumers and demanding guarantees from suppliers that PFAS would not be added to fabrics.

Formaldehyde, a chemical widely used in the textile industry and with recognized toxicity, frequently appears in analyzes of clothing items. Recent research in Spain found significant levels of this substance in clothing intended for pregnant women, babies and children, including underwear made from organic cotton and with an ecological appeal. As formaldehyde is absent in pre-washed items, it is suggested to wash them before first use. Washing can also reduce the concentration of other toxic products in fabrics, reducing the risk of absorption through the skin. However, here we come to another problem: the substances released during washing contaminate the environment and can have negative effects on ecosystems.

The textile industry is already considered one of the most polluting in the world. In addition to the enormous amount of toxic products released during the production of raw materials, the use and disposal of clothing itself can cause environmental damage. Developed countries are exporting used parts to places where they are resold and discarded. A landfill on the outskirts of Accra, the capital of Ghana, has become one of the symbols of this crisis, with clothes falling from 20-meter piles and being washed away by the sea. Aerial images of the Atacama Desert, in Chile, have shown the dizzying growth of a landfill of clothes from developed countries — which receives around 40 thousand tons per year, and can now be seen from space.

Dressing is a human need and the world consumes more and more clothes. Investments in research into the toxicity of chemicals in tissues and the development of remediation processes for this pollution should be priorities, as should clear regulations and definitions regarding the products we are purchasing.

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Rossana Soletti has a PhD in morphological sciences and professor at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul.

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