The secrets to buying and preparing a picanha

Picanha is a national preference considered the second best dish in the world by the World Atlas of Flavor. But this meat has its secrets and it takes keen eyes not to be tricked when buying and skilled hands not to spoil the sirloin steak during preparation. That’s why we’ve invited barbecue master Douglas Pulpero, CEO of Restaurante Pulperiano, to give you tips on how to buy and prepare a perfect sirloin steak.

What is it?

Douglas: The picanha is located in the upper back part of the ox, where the muscles are less required. In Argentina, this meat is called “tapa de cuadril”, which in Portuguese means ox rump cap.

As a barbecue, grilled and with that name, picanha is only traditionally served in Brazil. The name is of Italian origin, “Picatta” is a stick that had a stinger at the end and was used to sting cattle in the back of their lumbar region.

The secrets of the steak

Douglas: The softness. The picanha comes from a part that does not require effort during physical activity of the ox. Bearing in mind that the bigger the bull, the bigger the rump steak, and due to genetic improvement and cross-breeding, we can have very large sirloin steaks of excellent quality, but when in doubt, choose the smaller ones.

When buying, choose pieces that have a lot of marbling (those are those white “fat” dots in the middle of the meat), try to see if the layer of fat is uniform from end to end. The ideal weight is between 1 kg and 1.2 kg, in a triangular shape.

To buy quality meat, you need to find a butcher shop of origin and always try to be a friend of the butcher. Only a trusted professional will never sell you the picanha and send you the hard coxão.

Skewer or grill?

Douglas: We can prepare the picanha in several ways, but the most traditional way is to cut it into slices and skewer it in a half moon shape. It is also possible to roast the whole piece on a skewer or on the grill, which is how I prefer it (see how to prepare at the end).

And the sweet spot?

Douglas: There is a great controversy over what this point is, but the ideal is the one you like! I like it rare or medium rare, as it maintains the main characteristics of the meat, such as flavor and juiciness.

Salt before or after?

Douglas: Most people have the habit of seasoning first. I advise, when prepared on the grill, to use salt to finish. Thus, it enhances the flavor, preventing you from salting the meat too much, especially when it comes to thinner and more delicate cuts.

But remembering that there is no right or wrong about salt, but preference.

Don’t make that mistake!

Douglas: Don’t compromise your picanha roast by leaving it too long in the fire. Unlike large, firmer cuts such as ribs, rump steak does not depend on a lot of fire to become tender and juicy.

The picanha is a cut to roast quickly. Otherwise, it can dry out or even burn, leaving the cut tasteless and dry!

The chef’s preparation

Douglas: My favorite way to cook the picanha is on the grill (parrilla) in two stages: first, placing it whole on the grill without salt with a strong ember 30 cm from the fire, for approximately 3 to 4 minutes on each side (we call this technique to seal), starting with the fat side, this way it will be more tender.

Then you cut into Steaks (filets) of approximately 2 fingers. The cut can be both in the sense of width and also in length that is very different to present. Right after cutting, grill again to find the point of your preference.

golden tip

Douglas: Meat rest. Yes, meat needs to rest! After searing the meat, leave it off the heat for 1 or 2 minutes, depending on the outside temperature. Only then do you make the cut, you will realize that all the meat juice (myoglobin), which many think is blood, will remain internally, so the meat gains in tenderness and juiciness.