See the best ground coffees available in markets – 05/01/2023 – Food
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In addition to street cafes popping up across the country, the growing number of shelves dedicated to coffee brands in markets is a sign of expanding demand in the sector.
To help those who, faced with this scenario, have thought of trying new brands, Sheet carried out a blind tasting of available ground coffee labels and evaluated their attributes. “For a long time, the domestic market did not absorb differentiated coffees, with certain characteristics such as sweetness and marked acidity”, he says.
Celírio Inácio, executive director of Abic (Brazilian Coffee Industry Association). Portfolio diversification and barista training are some of the reasons given for the consolidation of demand in the country.
The tasting is part of the Folha Prova evaluation section, which offers the reader a purchase and use guide. The first report addressed white wines for sale for up to R$70.
The coffee brands were purchased at the Pão de Açúcar and Carrefour units in Jardins, but are found in apps and online stores.
The initial list brought together 12 brands that identify themselves as special, gourmet or superior (read more on this page). The evaluation of the labels, which cost from R$17 to R$29, took place at the Coffee Lab, and was carried out by baristas from the Vila Madalena coffee shop, in the west zone of São Paulo, using Melitta support, one of the most used for straining. at home.
According to specialist Isabela Raposeiras, who tried the samples in the dark, they proved to be of good quality, but some did not have their full potential revealed —since the aromatic compounds in coffee, after being ground, volatilize in contact with oxygen.
“Furthermore, in order not to produce an imbalance, coffees with a high level of oxidation were not considered. This can happen for different reasons, such as damage to the packaging”, says Raposeiras.
A portion of the samples showed bitterness, according to the expert —which, within the evaluation of specialty coffees, can be considered a defect or problem above a certain level. According to Abic, bitterness is an intrinsic characteristic of coffee due to the presence of compounds, but it varies depending on factors such as harvesting, storage and roasting.
See analysis of the nine labels with the best ratings.
Nescafé Origins of Brazil – Serras do Alto Paranaíba (MG)
“It has sweet notes reminiscent of pudding, low body and medium acidity, which resemble fresh plums”, says Raposeiras. “A coffee that has potential, but with a little more bitterness than expected.”
Special coffee, 100% Arabica. Price: R$ 25.40 (250 g), at Casa Santa Luzia
Orfeu Special Coffees Organic – Sertãozinho Sul de Minas and Mogiana farms
“It has layers of different aromas, including chestnuts, fruits and emphasis on floral aromas, lavender and jasmine”, says Raposeiras. For her, however, the complexity coexists with “a certain smoked flavor, which I would not like to see here.”
Price: BRL 28.99 (250 g), at Extra
3 Gourmet Hearts – Mogiana Paulista
It’s quality, “with a sweetness reminiscent of agave, more delicate”, says the specialist. “But with a more developed roast, the coffee would be sweeter.”
Price: BRL 18.18 (250 g), at mercafe.com.br
Café do Centro – Sul de Minas Gourmet
It has a very light sweet taste, without intense bitterness. “From a technical point of view, you can see that it has good acidity, which is welcome, aroma and flavor that refer to sweet compounds. But the expression is a little off”, says Raposeiras.
Price: BRL 20.19 (250 g), at Carrefour
L’Or – Mogiana Gourmet
“It has a lively acidity, which is desirable, a good body that fills the mouth. But it has an astringency [sensação de secura] which is not positive”, says Raposeiras. For the consumer, the first thing that is felt is a little sourness, reminiscent of strawberry or raspberry.
Price: BRL 27.29 (250 g), at Clube Extra
Melitta – Brazilian Regions – Sul de Minas Gourmet
“Different from wine, the woody note is not positive in coffee. It has acidity and body, but more rustic aromas and lack of sweetness”, says Raposeiras. As a consumer, an acerola acidity is perceived, with bitterness and astringency.
Price: BRL 16.98 (250g), in Mambo
Baggio Café – Gourmet bourbon – Sul de Minas and Alta mogiana
“It doesn’t have big problems and a light bitterness”, says Raposeiras. For those who are not specialists, the positive sourness stands out, but without sweetness and a feeling of dryness in the mouth.
Price: BRL 24.79 (250 g), at Pão de Açúcar
Pestle Cafeteria Coado a Vacuo – Superior quality
“Low body and lack of acidity. Bitterness typical of the superior category, which is not intense. It has notes of cocoa nibs, but limited aromatic expression”, says Raposeiras.
Price: BRL 23.99 (500 g), in St Marche
Ponto Safra Especial Coffee – Superior quality
“It has a superior coffee delivery, which is neither bitter nor sweet. It has no defects”, says Raposeiras.
Price: BRL 20.90 (250 g), at Casa Santa Luzia
Find out what the coffee categories are
Abic, the Brazilian Association of the Coffee Industry, monitors its members to assess good practices and the consistency of what they offer —including analyzes of the product on the shelf. The association should launch a new coffee evaluation protocol in June, with nuances and criteria that include consumer perception.
In January, the agency revised its quality program, unifying purity seals (raw material without adulterations) and quality. According to the association, superior coffee is a beverage with bitterness, sweetness and acidity ranging from light to moderate (perceived by consumers as smooth, with bitterness and light acidity, with aroma and flavor).
Gourmet has low bitterness, moderate to high acidity and sweetness, with an emphasis on fruity and floral attributes (it is perceived as smooth, sweet, acidic, fruity and citric). Specialty coffees, regulated by other methodologies, are free of impurities and follow aroma and flavor parameters, among other requirements.
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