Proof Sheet: Discover the best national olive oils of 2023 – 06/05/2023 – Food
[ad_1]
Of high quality and with the advantage of arriving fresher than many imported ones at the consumer’s table, national olive oil is usually disputed. So much so that, despite the higher price, a portion of these labels is sold before being bottled.
To help the consumer to discover this production, the Sheet organized a panel with oils from recognized national brands whose vintage has just hit the market.
The tasting was carried out in the dark, and initially gathered a sample of 20 different extra virgin labels from ten producers — only the best example from each of them was considered. Both monovarietal oils (those made with one quality of olive) and blends were part of the selection. The samples were sent, at the request of the reporter, by the producers.
Participating in the assessment were expert Ana Beloto, consultant in the area, Patrícia Galasini, president of the São Paulo State Olive Growing Sectorial Chamber, and Sandro Marques, author of “Extrafresco: Guia de Azeites Brasileiros”, which is published biannually and covers the entire country’s production.
The tasting is part of the Folha Prova evaluation section, which offers the reader a purchase and use guide —in the first editions, coffee and white wine were addressed.
“It was a very significant sample of national production”, says Marques. “It’s good to see that we continue to grow in quality. We are learning, for example, to make better and better blends”, he continues.
This year, the two main producing regions, Serra da Mantiqueira (in this case, the border between São Paulo and Minas Gerais) and Rio Grande do Sul, had opposite results in their harvests due to climatic conditions.
In the Southeast of the country, according to the president of Assoolive (Association of Olive Growers of the Foothills of Mantiqueira), Moacir Nascimento, production fell by around 50% compared to the previous year.
This is what happened to the farm where Sabiá olive oil is produced, in Santo Antônio do Pinhal, in São Paulo. Last August, the olive trees on the property of Bia Pereira and Bob Vieira da Costa were full of sprouts. “I thought it would be the best harvest in history”, says Bia.
In September, however, it started to rain very heavily every day. A good part of the flowers fell and, with that, few fruits came. The result was a production that did not reach a third of that obtained a year earlier.
On the other hand, on the couple’s other farm, in Encruzilhada da Serra, in Rio Grande do Sul, the drought (which devastated other crops in the region) ensured a fantastic olive harvest: double that of 2022.
In the south of Brazil, according to Renato Fernandes, president of Ibraoliva (Brazilian Institute of Olive Culture), the 2023 olive harvest should guarantee a production of olive oils at least 10% higher than the production of 2022 —which was double that of 2021 .
Good extra virgin olive oils are not made alone. “It is necessary, for example, to harvest at the ideal maturation point to provide profitability and the desired sensory characteristics at the same time”, says Ana Beloto, author of the book “Azeite-se” (ed. Rona; 288 pages.).
In the mill, where olive oil is produced, it’s the same thing. “We need to look for a regulation of the machines that guarantees the desired result. If the temperature, for example, is too cold, little oil is extracted. Too hot, it alters the sensorial characteristics.”
As this consumption is still niche in Brazil, which generally produces premium extra virgin olive oil, many consumers still have doubts about how to take the first steps in this universe. “Each person has a different taste”, says Patrícia Galasini, who is also a professor at Senac-Aclimação. “It is more common to prefer the ‘sweet’ at the beginning. So, I suggest starting with those products with a milder profile and moving on to the more spicy and bitter ones. The palate is a construction.”
Check below the list of olive oils best evaluated during the tasting.
Strands New Strands
Blend of coratina, arbequina, grappolo, koroneiki and arbosana varieties, from Andrelândia (MG). Smooth and complex at the same time, it has ripe fruit notes reminiscent of apple, banana and white guava. He orders a delicate dish like pea risotto or sweets like cheesecake.
Price: BRL 89 (250ml), at Fazendavertentes.com.br
Vienzo Koroneiki
Installed in the municipality of Rancho Queimado, Quinta do Vienzo is a pioneer in the production of olive oil in Santa Catarina. This specimen of the koroneiki variety stands out for its notes of apple, banana and flowers. “It must go well with Arab food, which calls for something a little ‘sweet'”, says Sandro Marques.
Price: BRL 60 (250 ml) at quintadovienzo.com.br
Estancia das Oliveiras frantoio
The aroma of freshly cut grass stands out in olive oil, produced in Viamão, 28 km from Porto Alegre. Arugula, watercress and artichoke also appear. “It has a balance between bitterness and spiciness”, says Ana Beloto. Combines with dark leaves and white beans.
Price: R$120 (250 ml), at Azeite Experience. Phone: (11) 98188-1645
Milonga Arbequina Portrait
It has herbaceous aromas reminiscent of cabbage stalks and cut grass. “It is an example of what is called green fruitiness in oils”, says Patrícia. Balanced, it has medium spice and bitterness. “I would eat it with beans, farofa and braised kale.” Made in Triunfo, about 80 km from Porto Alegre.
Price: BRL 95 (500ml) at oliveiromilonga.com.br
Bem-Te-Vi Arbequina and Arbosana
From Encruzilhada do Sul (RS), it refers to herbs, such as thyme, basil and oregano. “Here I would use the rule of less is more, I would only eat it with pasta and red sauce”, says Ana Beloto.
Price: BRL 45 (250 ml), at loja.azeitebemtevi.com.br
Marchio Koroneiki House
Ideal for those who like more bitter flavors. On the nose, it brings dark leaves like arugula and watercress. “It’s good on grilled meat”, says Sandro Marques.
Price R$50. Phone: (51) 99971-0663, at casamarchio.com.br
Sabiá Blend de Terroir
Blend that combines the coratina, koroneiki and arbosana varieties, from the brand’s two farms (Sul and Mantiqueira). Complex, intense and balanced, it has spices and floral aromas. Harmonizes with fish and seafood.
Price: BRL 94 (250 ml), lojaazeitesabia.com.br
Intense Irarema
Made with koroneiki and grappolo olives in São Sebastião da Grama, on the border of São Paulo and Minas, it has “aroma of green leaves”, says Patrícia Galasini. Versatile, works from salads to marinades.
Price: BRL 64.90 (250 ml), at olive oilexperience.com
Orfeu Blend by Safra
Surprised to be quite mature. Blend of koroneiki, arbequina, grappolo, coratina and picual pleases those who are starting in the world of special oils.
Price BRL 219 (350 ml), at cafeorfeu.com.br
[ad_2]
Source link
