Get expert tips for making kebabs

Simple to eat, simple to prepare. The skewers are the most democratic dish of the Brazilian barbecue, in which the meat, vegetables, garlic bread or cheese are grilled in individual portions, perfect to be devoured without cutlery.

The most common is xixo, which uses beef and is assembled with interspersed peppers, bacon and onions. The cut used can be soft drumstick, rump or flank steak in cubes, or pork or chicken meat. “It is interesting to select cuts with a softer texture, with little fiber. Preferably those with fat present and few nerves”, teaches Renato Bedore, professor of gastronomy at Universidade Positivo.

Those who prefer only meat need to pay attention to the time: with vegetables, the roasting time is prolonged. “I advise you not to choose such lean meats because it gets too dry. In the xixo, the meat becomes more humid and the grilling time increases. A rump-only skewer takes five minutes; a rump shank, six”, points out Idacir Segatti, owner of Tiroleza Casa de Carnes.

The butcher shop has been operating in downtown Curitiba for 38 years and prepares skewers daily to serve in front of the business in the late afternoon. “You can make skewers in a gas or electric oven, on the grill. But when you do it on charcoal, the effect of heat releases enzymes into the meat, which has more aroma and flavor. Plus the smoked process”, he explains.

The proximity between the grill and the ember is essential to get the temperature right. Too far, the heat does not sear the meat, which can end up cooking without browning. Too close and the heat will burn the meat and the center won’t cook. “About eight centimeters between the coals and the grill, with the cubes of meat between three and four centimeters”, estimates Daniel Lopes Izar, who has been behind the bar for 22 years and in front of the barbecue grill at Espetinhos Daniel e Xixo, at Hugo Lange.

Brown each of the four sides of the meat skewers for one to two minutes. “The meat is sealed and, with that, it maintains its succulence”, observes Bedore. Vegetables and cheeses may take longer to brown, and it is up to the barbecue person to decide if he wants more or less time. “I like to make vegetable skewers with bacon. Okra, eggplant and zucchini can be cut into two-inch pieces and wrapped in bacon slices,” she suggests.

No rules for seasoning kebabs

There is no single rule for seasoning skewers. Idacir recommends marinating in brine with herbs, spices and fresh aromatics, such as garlic and onion, three to four hours before roasting. “It’s what we call ‘church seasoning’. You can add seasonings according to the type of meat. For the pork, I like to throw in some spicy paprika or lemon pepper,” he comments.

Daniel prefers a dry marinade: salt seasoned with oregano and fine herbs. “For 22 years I have seasoned in the eye. I don’t add garlic or any type of pepper, because there are customers who don’t like it, ”he observes. For white meats, Daniel recommends adding lemon before grilling.

Bedore opts for a paste made with fresh ingredients, in which he leaves the skewers to marinate overnight. “I make a paste based on garlic, onion, parsley, lemon, oil and spices, like mustard seed or coriander. For chicken meat, beer can be added and for beef, red wine”, he recommends.

Fruit on the skewer and on the grill

To speak of fruit and barbecue is to think of grilled pineapple with cinnamon. The fruit contains enzymes that aid in the digestion of animal protein. Passing through the heat decreases the acidity of the fruit and enhances its flavor. As well as pineapple, other fruits benefit from the process – as Bela Gil and her watermelon barbecue say.

To innovate in grilled fruits, Bedore recommends using figs, peaches and pears cut into large pieces so they don’t fall off the toothpick. “The fig and peach can only be cut in half. Now the pear can be in quarters ”, he teaches. The heat will bring out the sweetness of the fruit and give it a smoky and bitter touch, depending on the point of maturation. To ensure a caramelized cone, you can sprinkle sugar before going to the barbecue.

Tips for preparing the skewers

• Soak the sticks in cold water before inserting the ingredients. This prevents the wood from burning while the meat is roasting and facilitates handling.
• If you opt for a paste marinade, brush it over the skewers as they roast to intensify the seasoning.
• Bake the skewers over coals and not over high heat. Allow the flame to extinguish and the grill to heat up for a long time. The right temperature to start roasting is when the meat sizzles when touching the grill.
• To make in a gas oven, preheat oven to high heat until very hot. Place the skewers to bake in a baking dish for 20 to 25 minutes, without turning the meat. The same goes for an electric barbecue: only place the meat when it is very hot and the grill marks when it touches.
• Brush neutral-flavored vegetable oil on the grill when preparing cheese and fruit so you can flip the skewers without the ingredients sticking and falling apart.
• Position a grill next to the grill or above the grill to keep the roasted kabobs hot longer. Using aluminum foil with the shiny side inward also prevents heat dispersion.

Recommended ingredients:

• Beef: Rump, flank steak, soft drumstick
• Chicken meat: Heart, chicken breast, sasami, boneless drumstick, tulip (middle of the wing).
• Pig meat: Pork tenderloin, boneless leg, sirloin cup, pancetta.
• Cheeses: Coalho cheese, provolone, mozzarella cheese.
• Vegetables: Okra, eggplant, zucchini, eggplant, onion, tomato.
• Fruits: Pineapple, watermelon, fig, peach, pear.
• Others: Garlic bread, German sausage, sausage, shiitake mushrooms, Paris and Portobelo.

Service:

Daniel and Xixo skewers. Rua Dr. Goulin, 980, Hugo Lange. Open from Wednesday to Saturday from 6 pm to 11 pm. Skewers (12 types) from R$ 5 each.

Tiroleza Meat House. Rua Saldanha Marinho, 746, Centro. Open from Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 8 pm. It serves eight types of skewers from 5pm to 8pm, Monday to Saturday, outside the butcher shop (R$6, 130g unit).