Find out which pan is ideal for each type of recipe – 06/12/2023 – Food

Chef Giovanna Grossi, at the head of the Animus restaurant in São Paulo, has her passion for iron pots. “I use it on coals, in induction, in the oven and even on the grill.” Tuca Mezzomo, chef at Charco and Vista, has the same appreciation for iron. “It’s perfect for making a caramelized crust for some rice recipes.”

Although the material is traditional, the pieces that the cooks use fall into the category of a consumer dream: with an internal enamel coating, they are from the French brand Staub, with prices that reach four digits.

For those who like to cook, the portfolio of pans for sale is tempting. It is increasingly varied in terms of materials, colors, formats and promises related to resistance and ease of cleaning.

Product consultant at Espaço Dragonetti, which has been selling kitchen utensils for 58 years, Claudia Dragonetti says that concern for health and safety has guided the clientele’s choices — demanding the inspection seal from the National Institute of Metrology, Quality and Technology (Inmetro) is your recommendation.

“The aluminum ones that our grandmothers used, for example, are much sought after by those who make homemade sweets. In them, it is easier to control the point of caramel.” As beautiful and attractive as the launches are, she recognizes that there is still a lot of demand for cheaper pans made of known materials, such as aluminum and iron.

Knowing the properties of each material is the first step in choosing well. Next, the engineer specialized in materials Guilherme Wolf Lebrão, a professor at the Mauá Institute of Technology, explains the properties that determine how to use them. To complete, chefs give examples of recipes that work in each case.

Aluminum

Unbeatable in price (there are models for less than R$ 50), they are light and versatile. Thin, they heat up quickly and don’t retain heat for long, which can be advantageous, says Mezzomo. “They’re good for sauces like carbonara and cacio pepe. To stop the cooking process, just remove it from the heat.”

Aluminum transfers particles to the food, which is harmful to health, but certified pans have a protective film. “You shouldn’t clean them with abrasives. Sanding the pan removes the protective layer”, warns Lebrão.

Acidic preparations, such as tomato sauce, also accelerate the degradation of protection. They are ideal for deep-frying, making pasta, tomato-free sauces and sugar syrup —it’s easier to control the caramel point.

Aluminum with non-stick

In the early 1980s, Brazilians were introduced to the polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) polymer, Teflon. The siding is easy to clean and its price also helps with its popularity. Heat conduction is fast, like that of pure aluminum, but maintenance requires care —when it exceeds 200ºC, the non-stick material begins to degrade.

“In this case, even if the teflon is not being released, it releases toxic molecules that can contaminate food”, says Lebrão. Even worse if the Teflon is scratched, peeling or forming bubbles – this is the case of retiring the pan.

Works well for fat-free grilling, quick stir-frying, and creamy preparations that stick easily. Just like pure aluminum ones, they can only be used on induction cooktops if the bottom has ferrous metal or stainless steel in the composition.

Clay

Its low conductivity—it takes time to heat up and cool down—makes it attractive for long-cooking dishes. At the same time, it requires care: it must, for example, be cured with water and oil before using it for the first time.

“The pan cracks easily with thermal shock and is not recommended for foods without broth, because they stick. It takes ten minutes to heat up and continues to boil for a long time, even after the flame is turned off”, says chef from Espírito Santo Angelita Gonzaga. Used in dishes such as moqueca, capixaba pie and feijoada.

ceramics

Because it is a stable material, there is no migration of particles into the food. Therefore, pans made of other materials are internally coated with ceramic. According to Lebrão, it withstands very high temperatures and, like clay, it takes time to heat up and cool down.

Its biggest disadvantage is low resistance, as it breaks easily. Used in the same preparations indicated for clay pots.

stainless steel

More resistant to corrosion by acids, cuts and impacts, it outperforms aluminum in terms of durability — but is usually more expensive.

It conducts heat quickly, which is why models with a triple bottom appeared. “The superimposed layers reduce conductivity and prolong cooking”, says the professor.

For Tuca Mezzomo, recipes in which elements are incorporated little by little favor stainless steel. “You add ingredients in multiple steps, without the preparation that’s already in the pot getting cold.”

This same property requires the cook’s attention — after turning off the heat, the pot continues to cook. It can be used minced, to improve the seasoning of the beans and to make stews that form a crust. Also works on induction cooktops.

Cast iron

The iron in the composition migrates to food, so cooking in this pan is an old recipe for fighting anemia —an excess of the mineral, however, can even cause illness.

Heavy, not practical for everyday use. But in this category, consumer dreams come in, like the French pans Le Creuset and Staub, both with enameled coating that facilitates cleaning. It is a luxury for few, which can exceed R$ 3,000.

For chef Marcelo Giachini, from the Imma restaurant, the imported ones are worth it. “In addition to distributing heat evenly, the bottom and sides are enameled and do not stick or rust.”

Ideal for searing meat, carrying out long-cooking recipes and dishes whose preparation starts over the fire and ends in the oven, such as braised dishes —as long as the lid is not made of plastic. Go for induction cooktops.

multilayer

Advertised on TV, they combine different materials such as aluminum, carbon and ceramic. According to Lebrão, the intention is to take advantage of the best of each one.

The preparations are similar to those of the non-stick version —in general, foods that can stick to the bottom—, but care must be taken not to damage the ceramic layer with the use of utensils.