discover the story of the woman behind Casa Riograndense

If you want a cheese to impress on the charcuterie table, you’ll want to stop by this discreet mansion on Avenida Manoel Ribas. Mercearia Riograndense arrived on the street when it didn’t even have asphalt yet, and there goes 69 years of history – 44 of which included the dedication of Emi Hepp, today in charge of the traditional house in the São Francisco neighborhood and one of the Bom Prize honorees Gourmet 2023.

The business began in 1954 with a focus on salami, which came from Rio Grande do Sul, as Emi’s father-in-law, Carlos Hepp, had a representation of the Rio Grande do Sul slaughterhouses in the city. Afterwards, he added more items to the house and established himself as a grocery store until passing the operation on to his son, Emi’s husband. At the time, there was even fruit available, but over time and competition, they were eliminated from the shelves.

When a customer passed by and asked if there was a bakery there, during the interview, Emi was quick to say: “No. There’s only cheese here.” And there are many, of different nationalities and types. Between bries, gorgonzola and camembert, Emi found her place in the world, there behind the counter, serving customers who have remained for decades and generations.

The pieces are highlighted right at the entrance of the house, which also has jams, sausages, snacks and preserves, in addition to having all those key ingredients to finish a recipe. Among Emi’s favorites are truffle cheese and brie. The store’s flagships are European – of Dutch, French and Italian origin.

The decision to invest in cheeses came after the opening to imports, still in the 1990s, under former president Fernando Collor, when supermarkets began to threaten small grocery stores. At Riograndense, the answer was clear: quality cheeses and personal, attentive service. The formula remains intact.

But the story of Emi, now 71 years old, began way back: it was on the Wednesday after Carnival in 1979, right after her wedding, that the German descendant from Rio Grande do Sul started working with her husband at the grocery store. Her dream, however, goes back even further, from the time she lived in Três Passos, a city with just over 25 thousand inhabitants close to the border with Argentina. “I always imagined that I would work in commerce. At home, with my parents, I didn’t have that opportunity”, she recalls. It was at Riograndense that she fulfilled her wish.

For two years now, she has been managing it alone – and has loved the experience. She realizes that her customers feel the same way. “These two years have been wonderful for me. Here I have fulfilled myself. I do what I like. And it’s beautiful to work, very enjoyable”, she says.

Service

WHERE: Av. Manoel Ribas, 660 – São Francisco
PHONE / WHATSAPP: (41) 3023-5329
SERVICE: Monday to Saturday, from 9am to 6pm. In person and take away