Denouncement of slave labor could impact the image of Brazilian wine

It’s harvest time in Brazilian wineries. But the festive season of grape harvesting for wine production has taken on bitter notes in recent days. The news of the rescue of just over 200 workers in conditions similar to slavery in the region of Bento Gonçalves (RS) shocked consumers and the world of gastronomy. In addition to the indignation with the fact, there is the fear of how the involvement of the name of some of the main Brazilian wineries in the case will reflect on the national wine market.

According to information from the Ministry of Labor and Employment (MTE), the victims were hired by Fênix Prestação de Serviços. The labor outsourcing company had contracts with three major wine producers in Brazil: Aurora, Salton and Cooperativa Garibaldi.

According to reports, the men worked daily for more than 15 hours without breaks and with only one day off in the week. The complaint also talks about accommodation in poor conditions, spoiled food, abusive charges and even physical aggression, with electric shocks and pepper spray by the main contractor. The case is being investigated by the Federal Highway Police (PRF), Federal Police (PF) and the Ministry of Labor and Employment (MTE).

In official notes, the wineries claim that they were not aware of such practices and that they are providing solidarity and assistance to the rescued workers. According to labor law, even if indirectly involved, wineries are co-responsible for the situation of workers. And, in addition, see the names of important players of the market involved in a case like this raises suspicions about the national wine production chain as a whole.

On social networks, what is said is mourning in Brazilian wine and images associating wine production in the country with slave labor appear in allusion to the case. Among oenologists, producers and specialists in the area, the reflections of the case on the reputation and on the national wine market are of concern. The main fear is generalization.

“Wine has a beautiful trajectory in Brazil and the action of just three wineries cannot be allowed to tarnish the dedication of more than 500 years of history”, says oenologist and professor at Chef Gourmet Santa Felicidade, Lindslei Monteiro Antunes. She defends that one cannot generalize an error of three companies in a universe of more than a thousand Brazilian wineries.

Journalist and sommelière Patrícia Ecave follows the same tone. Patrícia says that the situation is regrettable, but the other national wine producers cannot be harmed by this case. “We, who work to increase consumption and strengthen the quality of national wine, are saddened by such news”, she laments.

The production of Brazilian wine has gained space in recent years, with the growth of domestic consumption and the improvement in production quality. According to data from Embrapa, 90% of wine production in Brazil is carried out in Rio Grande do Sul, mainly in Serra Gaúcha. In 2020, 745 thousand tons of grapes were harvested in the region for the production of wine and juice.

What the Wineries Say

See what the wineries involved in the complaint of work analogous to slavery say:

In an open letter, Cooperativa Vinícola Garibaldi repudiated any practice that violates respect for human beings or compromises their integrity. The company said it is offering solidarity to the victims and their families and reiterated that it does not condone the practices denounced.

Vinícola Aurora, on its Instagram account, manifested itself in solidarity with the victims and justified the hiring of outsourced workers due to the shortage of labor in the region. The winery also stated that it transferred more than R$ 6,000 per employee to the outsourcing company.

In a statement on social media, Salton said it “deeply regrets the recent events and repudiates any act of violation of human rights and work under precarious conditions analogous to slavery”. The company, however, admits that it did not check in loco the housing conditions offered to workers. “It was an isolated event in the company’s centenary trajectory, but a point of improvement that will be addressed with all the seriousness and respect that the situation demands.”