Bookstores and libraries that, by themselves, are worth a trip – 07/12/2023 – Josimar Melo

I have been following the saga of Livraria Cultura do Conjunto Nacional, in São Paulo, which in a long bankruptcy process has had its space emptied, and even closed (and later reopened). I’ve lost myself countless times on its walkways and shelves; I’ve taken my children to rummage through books sitting on the floor; I already published a book there. How sad to see the collapse (which, I hope, can be overcome).

Other large bookstores in São Paulo, such as Vila, seem to be standing the test of time. And, to my delight, smaller bookstores, outside malls, look healthy — Travessa, da Tarde, Megafauna. Very pleasant, they lead me to the reason for this chronicle: books can also be tourist attractions. Or at least their homes—the bookstores and libraries.

Some became so famous that visiting them became irresistible. I can’t imagine myself in Paris, strolling along the Seine, without taking a look at the century-old and messy Shakespeare & Co. (at least to pretend that I’m bumping into the mythical English-speaking authors who circulated there).

Others add architecture to their historic past. Pop culture elevated Lello bookstore, in the city of Porto (Portugal), also centenary, to first place in this regard. Its art nouveau decoration already enchants, but it is the suspended stairs and its elaborate shelves that most contributed to the legend that the author of the “Harry Potter” saga would have been inspired there when conceiving the library of the fictional castle of Hogwarts.

The writer JK Rowling, who actually lived in Porto, has already denied the fact – which does not deter queues of tourists at her door (the bookstore even charges admission, which can be discounted when buying books).

Talking about majestic architecture brings to mind two other bookish abodes. One, the El Ateneo bookstore, in Buenos Aires: younger, it nevertheless occupies an old and impressive space: an old theater whose stalls and side galleries now house the shelves.

Another is a library, and it’s in Rio de Janeiro — the Real Gabinete Português de Leitura. It dates back to the 19th century, and its neo-Manueline style architecture (a frantic mix of Gothic and Renaissance) is breathtaking.

Lest you think I’m the only crazy tourist visiting libraries, here’s a quick tip: The New York Public Library completed a renovation of its 1911 building that included a visitor center with attractions (including replicas and explanatory screens) for visitors. tourists who want to know its history, but not necessarily consult its more than 20 million volumes.

I’m not mentioning the bookstores and libraries I stumble across on the way. I have the old habit of, when traveling, always looking for a bookstore to at least browse books by local authors, as well as restaurant and travel guides, and books on gastronomy. They are more anonymous places, or big chains, that still always make me feel at home.

But researching now the most important bookstores and libraries that I visited, I came across Google outside with an infinity of others that I did not know. And I realize that my list is limited to buildings from the late 19th century onwards.

Surely if I had known, I could be recommending here the Boekhandel Dominicanen bookshop, in Maastricht (Holland), which is young but occupies a magnificent building from the 13th century. Or the Joanina Library in Coimbra (in Portugal), which was completed in 1728. Or the Palafoxiana Library in Puebla (Mexico), whose beautiful woodwork dates from 1646. All duly noted for the next trip.

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