Washington museums tell American history – 09/30/2024 – Tourism

You need to tread lightly and speak quietly. Between massive columns, seated on his throne, a marble giant gazes forward, while acolytes scatter at his feet. It is the statue of Abraham Lincoln, one of the founding fathers of the United States, at the memorial in his honor in Washington DC

When walking through civic monuments in the American capital like this, it is common to feel like you are visiting the landmarks of some religion. And we really are, but of a secular religion, which believes in a manifest destiny of the United States and in the model of democracy created by the country.

There’s no point trying, anyone who decides to visit DC won’t be able to escape civic tourism. And it shouldn’t. For devotees in the United States, it will be a Disneyland; for anti-Americans, it is an experience of otherness (isn’t that what you travel for?).

The good thing is that, in a day or two, depending on your mood, you can get this out of the way.

The National Mall, where these monuments are located, is a large tree-lined space with the main national landmarks — great for renting a bike, which can be electric, and going everywhere, from the obelisk in tribute to George Washington to the Capitol and the White House, among others.

If you don’t cycle —but understand English—, there are bus services for tourists that cover the entire route, with guides. It’s a bit of a marathon (the report tested the four-hour DC Highlights Bus Tour), but it’s great.

Then you will be ready to see that the American capital is much more than civic tourism and is perhaps one of the most interesting cities to visit in the country.

The reason? DC ties together two ends: at the same time that it seems to express the American national soul like few others, it is deeply cosmopolitan. Oblivious to national myths, there is a Washington that pulses with tree-lined streets, charming neighborhoods and cool restaurants.

Brazilians still don’t know this. Washington is in ninth place among the cities that tourists from here visit most in the United States, with 3.6% of travelers. The first are Orlando (42%), Miami (25%) and New York (21%).

From any of these cities, there are flights with interesting prices to DC. If you’re in New York, you can get there in just a few clicks: the train journey lasts around three hours, and those who want to travel early in the morning can pay cheaper (although arriving at Penn Station at this time means seeing rats the size of newborn children).

To fly non-stop between Guarulhos and Washington Dulles International Airport, there are United flights, which also offer the first class option, with access to a VIP lounge both on the way out and on the way back.

The good news is that, apparently, it’s not just Brazilians who haven’t discovered the city yet. Although it receives many American visitors (21 million), only around 1 million international tourists were there in 2023, half of them for vacation.

In practice, the impression is of a city that, yes, is touristy, but where it is still possible to have fun without the discomfort of gigantic queues or crowds squeezing into small spaces.

To walk

Few cities in the US are as inviting to explore on foot as Washington. There are several services that tourists can hire, such as guides from DC by Foot or DC Design Tours.

A good start is Georgetown, the charming — and rich — neighborhood on the banks of the Potomac River. Start with a bagel at Call Your Mother, which has appeared on lists of the best in the US, and walk away

You can easily discover the colorful houses on your own; but, if you have a guide, the garden houses are full of history.

There is, for example, one that, during the Civil War, was one of the city’s main brothels, where prostitutes only served Confederate soldiers. In addition to canals, alleys, restaurants — and the beautiful Georgetown University building.

For those who like shopping, M Street is the best place, with options ranging from the fast-fashion giant H&M to hipster or even luxury stores. It is also the most generic street.

The Capitol Hill neighborhood — yes, the region close to the Capitol — is also worth a walk. To start the day, one of the crowded places is the Tatte Bakery, with a great selection of breads, cakes and all types of confectionery. The amount of choices is a little dizzying.

The region is full of chic cafes and restaurants, where tourists and local political officials mingle.

There is civic tourism too, of course. It is possible to go to the American parliament —although circulation inside is somewhat restricted— and relax in the stunning Library of Congress. The two buildings are interconnected.

For those who like something more dog-friendly, literally, the nearby Postal Museum preserves the stuffed dog Owney, who was the postal mascot in the 19th century and was shot to death. Poor thing.

A city of museums

In a country where almost nothing is free and everything is more expensive after rising inflation, Washington has something unusual. There are 17 free, public museums managed by the Smithsonian Institution — 11 of them on the National Mall alone.

Among the options, one has stood out not only due to the impact of its exhibitions, but also because it is one of the only counterpoints to the patriotic narrative of tourism in the city.

The National Museum of African-American History and Culture, with architectural design by the firm Freelon Adjaye Bond/SmithGroup, shows the history of black people in the formation of the United States — from slavery to freedom.

The huge permanent exhibition is chronological. In the basement, there are memories of the slavery period. There, you can see a piece of the São José, a slave ship that sank in 1794, with 400 captives, when it was on its way to Maranhão, in Brazil.

Next came racial segregation and the fight for civil rights. Visitors can enter a train carriage from the period when black people were forced to travel separately from white people. It’s a tough route to watch. Aware of this, the museum concludes its exhibition on a more positive note: on the upper floors, there are the cultural contributions of African Americans in the country.

The visit is one of the most popular in the city. Even though it’s free, you need to book tickets in advance on the museum’s website. Better to do it before traveling.

If you can’t, it’s a shame, but there are museums for all tastes — including bad taste, of course. It’s possible to spend a week in Washington without being able to go to everyone.

The National Museum of American History, for example, is patriotic but eclectic. It also displays a reconstruction of presenter Julia Child’s kitchen, with original objects, including the Star-Spangled Banner, the 19th century flag that inspired the national anthem. In the basement, a snack bar with typical country food: hamburgers.

The options are countless. There is the National Museum of the American Indian. Or the rich collection of the National Gallery of Art, where you can see the painting “Ginevra de’ Benci”, painted by Leonardo da Vinci in the 15th century. Not to mention the National Portrait Gallery.

And those are the free choices. Anyone who wants to pay can also. The International Espionage Museum, for example, costs US$30, plus US$12 if you also want to see an exhibit about James Bond, with the cars used in the films.

It is one of those institutions with interactive exhibits. And it displays artifacts linked to the world of arapongas — from an ice ax used to kill Leon Trotsky (with an alleged blood mark) to a bra that would have belonged to Mata Hari.

If it seems difficult to handle so much, that’s because it is. Don’t underestimate Washington DC. The city deserves a little time of dedication. Otherwise, the risk is to return home feeling like you left something behind.

The journalist traveled at the invitation of United Airlines and Destination DC